Set against the dramatic coastline of Biarritz, the latest Chanel Cruise show felt like Matthieu Blazy was throwing the brand back to its roots.
The overall mood of the show was deeply inspired by the sea. Models appeared as if they had stepped out of a stylised underwater world, wearing details that reference marine life. Pearlescent finishes, shell-like embellishments, and sleek swim caps blurred the lines between fashion and fantasy. The result created an atmosphere that felt dreamy, theatrical, and surreal.
Despite the imaginative direction, the house’s signature elements remained intact. Tweed was still present, though lighter and more relaxed, and classic silhouettes were softened to suit a coastal setting. There was a clear effort to balance tradition with reinvention, keeping Chanel's identity recognisable while allowing it to evolve.
The styling drew the strongest reactions, though, especially the footwear. The barely-there heels, which left much of the foot exposed, quickly became a talking point. Some viewers appreciated their unconventional, almost artistic quality, while others questioned their practicality and purpose beyond the runway.
Meanwhile, the clothing itself felt refined and wearable, but certain styling choices pushed more into conceptual territory. Whether one sees that as exciting or excessive largely depends on how they view fashion’s role. Is it something to wear, or something to provoke?
In the end, the collection stood out for its willingness to take risks. It showed a version of Chanel that is still grounded in its heritage, yet willing to challenge expectations and cause debates.
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