What a week. Men’s Paris Fashion Week has come to a close, and as Couture Week kicks off with historic house Schiaparelli (feat. a hairy appearance from Kylie Jenner) we have just about enough time for a recap of some of the week’s best moments.
From footwear collabs on the runway, to weird, wonderful and chaotic collections – here’s your need-to-know PFW round up from the CULTED front-line.
MARGIELA’S ODE TO VIV
Maison Margiela’s Co-Ed 2023 show was a punk affair, with nods to Vivienne Westwood’s iconic tartan layering popping up all over the runway. A small presentation with only around 100 attendees, the collection featured bows, ruffles, a splash of Leon Dame runway magic and the return of Maison’s infamous (and now Fashion TikTok beloved) tabi toe, this time as a range of glamorous platform heels bedecked with hundreds of rhinestones.
Is this a sign that the house is moving away from street wear undertones to return to the days of ‘dressing up’?
LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI WENT AMERICAN PSYCHO
Patrick Bateman just got a runway edition makeover. Fans of American Psycho went wild as Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s FW23 collection included blood-spattered models in contemporary suits fit for a genderless Wall Street.
Bonus points for spotting Emily in Paris star Lucas Bravo on the runway with an uncanny Bateman smirk to match.
RAINS FW23 WAS A SUPERHERO AFFAIR
Rising Scandi label Rains come a long way since their initial waterproof mac offerings. Entering FW23 with a range of floor length puffer coats, cape-resembling outerwear and even their own viral movement – an arm-connected, couples jacket – Rains are making elevated (and strategic) moves within the fashion world.
MAISON MIHARA YASUHIRO SAID ‘NO FAKES’
2023 is officially the year of authenticity, or so designer Mihara Yasuhiro says. Following a standout show in Paris, we spotted huge furry footwear, and even a nod to the collection’s name “The Imitation Complex” with a The North Face inspired puffer.
Speaking to CULTED after the show, he said: “I wanted to make something real. I wanted the materials to show realness through the fake. I’m a bit tired these days – of everything just being an imitation.”
BOTTER DID UP TRANSPORT CHIC
Botter never disappoint, do they? From a futuristic, Reebok-collaborated pair of sneakers, to necklaces in the form of cars, bike seat-shaped bags (and jumpers stuck on… jumpers?) their latest runway show added their typically playful twists to the everyday mundane. In true Caribbean Couture fashion, Botter AW23 was as ingenious and colourful as it was pleasing.
DOUBLET’S WONDERFULLY WEIRD FW23
As per, Doublet came in clutch with the weirdness. Their outdoor runway gave us furry-approved wonders such as a gyrating mouse, yeti-style trousers and limp, stuffed legs hanging around a models waist like a belt. Later down the line, the masks came out – in the form of a wolf, an alligator (kind of) and a distorted, stretched t-shirt bear that vaguely resembled a sagging sheet mask.
Trust Doublet to bring a touch of well-needed irony to the usually so sérieux French Fashion Week.
NAHMIAS ENLISTED KODAK BLACK
In the most surprising collab of the season, Nahmias teamed up with none other than Kodak Black for FW23. As his first foray into the fashion world, the 10 piece collection – titled California Poetry – featured nods to skate culture, hip hop and 90’s Santa Barbara style. Blink twice and you’d miss the bunny slippers (sadly not for sale, sorry) thrown into the mix.
KIDSUPER HAD THE LAST LAUGH
Colm Dillane’s second round at PFW following his Louis Vuitton guest feature (this time for his own brand, KidSuper) was less of a runway and more of a comedy show, with appearances from legendary fashion icon Tyra Banks – tapped to present the affair – and a range of acts including Jeff Ross. who all performed whilst dressed in accompanying KidSuper fits.
CHAINMAIL & TAILORING @ NAMACHEKO
Namacheko championed the modern warrior this Paris Fashion week, with hints of knight-esque chainmail, and a touch of emo angst. The Belgian label’s gender-defying return to Fashion Week ensued with bare legs, studs and acid wash two pieces for some, contrasted against cream puff coloured school girl tights and pleated dresses for the rest. Similarly, tailored pieces were designed for all and blended with nods to both feminine and masculine outlooks.
SCHOOLBOY OUTERWEAR AT KIKO KOSTADINOV
For this season’s ‘menswear’ collection – or should we say, boyswear – Kiko Kostadinov offered runway realness. Think Peter Pan, Robin Hood or any rogue character with boyish charm of your particular choosing – then, add a fresh dose of tech-wear design elements a la Kiko Kostadinov. Revealing backstage that the hope was for the show to portray a ‘group of schoolboys’ who had designed their own collection, a range of hooded garments and tangerine utilitarian outerwear was juxtaposed by sailor-chic outfits and knee length boots suited to a Victorian boy (or girl).
SACAI’S TWIST OF NIKE
Nike Air Footscape Woven fans rejoiced following the news that the cult shoe was making an anticipated return to retailer shelves this year. Japanese frontrunners Sacai said sit down and brace yourselves – we’ve got something else for you for FW23. Following a glimpse of two Carhartt WIP Classic Chore Jacket remixes on the Parisian runway, streetwear fans barely had a chance to process the collab before a pair of vibrant, suede and meshed Nikes stepped down the runway. Carhartt WIP and Nike in one sitting? Sacai knows how to win a crowd over.
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