The most eagerly anticipated moment on this season’s fashion calendar has concluded, and for the most part, the fashion set is satiated. Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson sent a varied but inherently wearable collection down the runway in Paris, to a strictly A-list FROW made up of A$AP Rocky and Rihanna, Sabrina Carpenter, Robert Pattinson, Josh O’Connor, and Mia Goth.
The show’s attendees offered the first hints at Anderson’s Dior (in addition to the IG teases Anderson and the brand have been rolling out over the past few weeks): talent was kitted out in pink striped collegiate-style polo shirts (I might need to dig out my Jack Wills from the noughties icl), Celtic knits—a nod to Anderson’s Irish heritage, and casual suiting.
Surprisingly, given Anderson’s penchant for designed-to-go-viral pieces, the collection was lacking in avant-garde gimmicks like the Loewe tomato or the puzzle bag. Instead, Anderson stayed true to the brand, rather than serving up designs that scream his name.
Boxers worn as shorts referenced Dior's former Creative Director Mark Bohan’s 1977 collection, while low V-neck jumpers reminded us of Bohan’s ‘79 line. The velvet blazers were also a nod to Dior’s archive, having been sent down the runway in varying iterations in ‘77 and ‘89.
The collection also referenced both British and American prep, via tweed blazers, V-neck knits, satchel bags, and jumpers strewn over shoulders (old money opulence is here to stay). For us, the military pieces were a highlight: refined jackets were double layered and featured opulent gold buttoning, and were reminiscent the army-style garments that house released in the ‘80s.
But true to Anderson’s tongue-in-cheek nature, the collection was also playful: both the celebrities in attendance and the models sported untucked shirts, messy collars, and eschew bow ties—cheeky details which conjured up being hot and bothered and getting dressed in a rush… for whatever reason.
We were also privy to a few easter eggs hinting at what we can expect from Anderson’s womenswear line: Sabrina Carpenter rocked up in a tailored grey skirt suit that looked like it was straight out of Christian Dior’s first collection for the house, while supple silk pleats could be seen on Natalia Vodaniova and Mia Goth.
It feels like Anderson is keeping it respectful and quintessentially Dior, at least for now.
Featured images via Getty ©
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