Before Paris Fashion Week kicks off tomorrow, we still need to talk about what went down in Milan. From MM6 Maison Margiela upgrading the v-neck to GCDS putting on a Brat-themed show, here’s our roundup of all the shows you might’ve missed in the chaos of the last week.
Del Core really cooked on this one
Gucci alumni, Daniel Del Core presented his eponymous label’s SS25 show in Milan this season, bringing a collection inspired by well-dressed scientists. Models carried research papers and classic literature, but the details on Del Core’s collection was the star of the show, seen in delicately pleated organza, intricate fringing, and the curled edges of skirts.
GCDS brought Brat to the runway
GCDS brought a Brat-green runway to SS25, on which models walked in an appropriately sexy, confident, and unapologetic collection. Giuliano and Giordano Calza delivered on sheer, fur, neon, and leather this season, swapping its typical love of prints and graphics for a colour-blocked collection that relied on texture instead.
Onitsuka Tiger aged into its stripes
Onitsuka Tiger grew into itself at SS25, revealing a collection that was inspired youth but felt contradictorily mature. Inspired by the urban metropolis, the show unveiled a grungy colour palette, genderless silhouettes, and textures that were kind of out of this world. In particular, a series of tops with fringing made of blue strips of foil had an incredible sense of movement to it.
Roberto Cavalli revived its archives
Roberto Cavalli’s SS24 collection, designed by Creative Director Fausto Puglisi was a tribute to Cavalli himself, taking us on a journey through the archives. Bringing back some infamous Cavalli muses to walk in the same dresses they wore decades before, the collection was an ode to the fact that Roberto Cavalli, in his own words, “was the party.”
Max Mara got mathematical
Max Mara’s SS25 collection was inspired by Hypatia, the 4th-century mathematician and philosopher, appearing in the form of a ‘trigonometrical twist’. Straight lines, delicate precision, and contemporary silhouettes appeared on the runway, resulting in a collection that was elevated, effortless, and wearable.
Tokyo James delivered on “Imperfection”
Tokyo James strived for imperfection, which was also the name of his SS25 collection. Challenging the notion of what “perfect” means in fashion, the show was inspired by a blend of Western aesthetics with Nigerian textile culture. Joined by Ugg on the runway, in a unique collaboration, Tokyo James revealed pieces that textured, contemporary, and in our opinion, pretty perfect looking.
MM6 Maison Margiela dropped the v-neck
MM6 Maison Margiela is known for bringing the Martin Margiela's subversive taste to more accessible, contemporary collections. This season, MM6 delivered on the clean tailoring we associate with the Maison blended with more modern pieces like ripped “jeggings,” ultra-low cut v-necks, and tank-style hoodies.
Emporio Armani delivered on tailoring
Emporio Armani delivered on tailoring this season, bringing its infamously clean-cut and sleek silhouettes to both masculine and feminine styles. However, amidst blazers, ties, and pressed trousers, the collection also revealed a sea of floaty floral looks, summer-y crochet accessories, and wide, paper-bag trousers.
Ferrari went back to basics
Ferrari mastered basics at SS25, revealing a collection that focused on function and wearability. The collection was understated, clean-cut, and refined, offering an elevated array of knitwear, denim, tailoring, and leather, joined by a smattering of stand-out pieces. For instance, we loved the frayed boning on a classic denim set, but also the intricate detail on a skirt and dress both made entirely from Ferrari horses sewn together was iconic.
Tod’s put craftsmanship first
For Tod’s SS25 collection, the brand set out to highlight its “Made in Italy” values through artisanal intelligence and a focus on innovative craftsmanship. Seen in a collective that was refined, timeless, and wearable, Tod’s brought a heritage inspired collection to this season, filled with tailored trenches and saddlery-inspired bags.
Sportmax made femininity the focus
Sportmax took over the Pinacoteca di Brera for an SS25 collection as elegant as its show space. Inspired by the attention to detail in fine craftsmanship, the collection was led by feminine codes that became artful and architectural. Tailored silhouettes in leather and denim were contrasted with draped fabrics like organza and silk, creating a juxtaposition that was perfect on the runway.
Missoni did primary colours only
Missoni focused on the idea of reduction at SS25, although that didn’t stop its collection from being one of the most vibrant we saw in Milan. Whilst Missoni set out to limit itself by reducing its colour palette this season, its use of unusual texture and silhouettes creates an avant garde effect that had us captivated.
SUNNEI threw its 10th birthday party
SUNNEI celebrated its 10th anniversary as a brand this Milan Fashion Week by throwing an unusual birthday party that centred around the fact that in fashion, ten years feels like a-hundred. Following that theme, the models it cast for its SS25 show were closer than expected to celebrating their 100th birthdays too.
Versace was spritzed with perfume
Perfume appeared on Versace’s SS25 runway in the form of shoes, bags, and jewellery, accessorising a collection that was bright, bold, and feminine - as to be expected from Donatella Versace. Enlisting Iris Law, Anok Yoi, Gigi Hadid, and plenty more icons on the runway, the collection was appropriately playful.
Ferragamo was en pointe
Maximilian Davis was inspired by the fashion born from ballet in Ferragamo’s SS25 collection, which saw the likes of Alex Consani and Mona Tougaard dressed in leotards, wrap-around heels, silk skirts, and creamy hues. The entire collection had a dreamy, silky air to it that elevated the internet’s beloved ballet-core aesthetic to a more luxe level.
The Attico was feeling fragile
The Attico revealed a collection called “The Sound of Breaking Glass” at SS25, which was inspired by the fragility of a broken heart. Linking up with Nike this season, Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio brought a blend of elevated sportswear and textured tailoring to the runway.
Santoni brought the heat to Milan
Santoni, the Italian born and based brand most famous for its luxury leather accessories and footwear, just brought the relaxed style of the Italian coast to Milan Fashion Week. The brand’s SS25 collection delivered on saturated colours, light fabrics, and elegant silhouettes perfect for the Spring/Summer period.
Featured image via Ferrari©
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