At Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear show in Paris last night, Creative Director Daniel Roseberry revealed exactly who’s been behind all of his collections for the house: women. In his show notes, Roseberry explained: “This collection, like all my work, owes everything to the women who brought it to life.”
Paying homage to every woman that has supported his creative vision and his work at the prestigious house, Roseberry credited “every stunning model on this runway, my stylist, my collection director, my studio members. Every woman, from client to seamstress to artisan and technician.” But that doesn’t mean he didn’t have a hand in bringing the collection to life himself.
Daniel Roseberry is known for his next level attention to detail and high-quality craftsmanship, revealing looks on Schiaparelli’s runways that literally snatch the breath out of his audience's mouths. But he also takes care in always referencing the house’s founder, Elsa Schiaparelli’s infamous designs, from the lobster and keyhole motifs seen on his runways to the avant-garde silhouettes he imagines up, and SS25 was no exception.
Hosted in Paris at the historic Place Vendôme, Daniel Roseberry’s SS25 show for Schiaparelli invited a star-studded FROW. Every season the house’s shows are a gem in the Paris Fashion Week schedule that welcomes the likes of Kylie Jenner, Cardi B, Doja Cat, Rosalia, Zendaya, and plenty more of the world’s best-dressed celebrities to be immersed in the world of Roseberry’s fantastical designs. As a result, it's not just Schiaparelli’s collections that turn the fashion world’s heads; it's his guests too.
In particular, Kylie Jenner - who once wore Schiaparelli’s infamous faux lion head dress to its Spring 2023 Haute Couture show - is a long-time fan of the house, known for arriving at Daniel Roseberry’s shows decked out in his designs, and she did exactly that this season too. Pulling up to the Place Vendôme last night, Kylie was dressed in a more understated Schiaparelli look: an L.B.D. with a low bustline and twisted white straps.
The surprisingly casual vibe of Kylie Jenner’s fit, which was tuned way down compared to her sparkling key-hole gown from last season, was a teaser of what was to come from Daniel Roseberry’s SS25 collection, as the designer used the runway to elevate everyone’s favourite basics. From denim jeans to crisp white shirts, the show reinvented the essential pieces in all of our wardrobes, with a couture-style Schiaparelli twist.
For example, Kendall Jenner walked on the runway in what looked like a pair of low-rise denim jeans paired with a corseted, cream bodysuit, but was actually a one-piece look attached at the waistband of the jeans and hem of the bodysuit. Similarly, Adriana Lima - another of the many iconic models who walked on Schiaparelli’s runway, including Candice Swanepoel and Mona Tougaard - appeared in a reinvented white shirt-dress, tailored into avant-garde proportions.
A knitted sweater was oversized with a huge silver zip hanging from the collar; blazers were tailored with broad, power suit style shoulder pads and cinched waists, creating an hourglass silhouette; and outerwear was blown up to massive, draped proportions, with rippling collars. In practically every look, casual pieces like jeans, sweaters, or shirts were transformed by Schiaparelli into something extraordinary, enlisting unusual proportions as well as Elsa Schiaparelli’s infamous motifs.
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The braids we saw at FW24/25 in the form of ties made out of what looked to be human hair were resurrected in fabric form this time and attached to a draped red skirt, and the keyhole symbol was also still present on the front of a slim, sparkling dress reminiscent of the look once seen on Kylie Jenner. Likewise, Schiaparelli’s iconic toe-detail shoes appeared in the form of mules in gold and silver detailed casts of feet.
This season, Daniel Roseberry wanted the women behind Schiaparelli to get their flowers too, by making sure they know that “this collection is not just possible because of you, it was designed for you and with you. It exists because of you. Thank you.” But we also want to thank the man himself for helping to keep Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy alive.
Featured image via @kyliejenner ©
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