Good bits you might have missed from Paris Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2024

Good bits you might have missed from Paris Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2024

by Ollie Cox
8 min

Paris Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2024 is officially over, and what a season it was. With crazy collections from mega brands like Balmain, Valentino and LOEWE to schedule highlights from Kiko Kostadinov, Junya Watanabe, At. Kollektive, and more, it was a belter of a week. If, like us, you can’t wait for the next one (don’t worry, you’ve not got long to wait, Copenhagen kicks off the women’s season at the end of the month), sink your teeth into some of the best bits you might have missed below. 

Kiko Kostadinov’s quirky conceptualism 
@kikokostadinov ©

A Kiko Kostadinov menswear collection is many things; detail-focused, energetic, rooted in utility, and filled with banging footwear, and Fall/Winter 2024 did not disappoint. Models engulfed the intimate show space with outfits akin to military uniforms, where trousers were tucked into boots for select looks and a collaboration with Levi’s fused conceptualism with tradition, weaving futuristic asymmetry and classic workwear detailing. 

Accessories included baby blue coin purses attached to belt loops and crown-like headpieces, intimately held together with safety pins and key holders attached to lanyards. Oh, and how could we forget the sexy shoulder bags? These bad boys combined zip detailing with a durable canvas and leather construction in an off-centre square shape, borrowing from the brand’s Trivia Bag and blowing it up to satchel-sized proportions.

Junya Watanabe gave smart casual a new meaning
@junyawatanabe ©

Junya Watanabe is a master at merging materials, and Fall/Winter 2024 was no different. Models wore grey hoodies and sweats with tailored overcoats, which featured pinstripe detailing on the upper. Up top, light blue Oxford shirts peaked from beneath sportswear later looks saw patchwork tailoring continued in the playful display. 

The Japanese label is no stranger to collaboration, and FW24 saw the continuation of its ongoing New Balance partnership. Following the show, images of a Junya Watanabe x New Balance 1906 loafer were quickly shared online, revealing a hybrid sneaker/shoe which saw the classic slip-on style atop a cushioned New Balance sole, showcasing the classic sportswear-meets-menswear crossover seen throughout.

Berluti built a collection of winter essentials 

For Paris Fashion Week, Berluti invited us into its world of grandeur in the seventh arrondissement of Paris. Suede jackets, cotton-silk-infused speckled denim suits, parkas gilets and down jackets are all featured as part of its solid outerwear offering. The luxury menswear brand centred on an autumnal palette, drawing on workwear elements and fusing it with luxury fabrics, including cashmere.

Winter accessories included a Toujors XL Tote woven in Scritto-jacquard blanket wool, The Jour Pillow overnight bag and a Shadow sling bag – offering a range of luggage options for any occasion. This season the collection was rooted in in the art of repair, a custom which showed wealth in the 16th and 17th centuries, where fabrics had to be strong enough to last a lifetime. This was a tradition Andy Warhol stuck to when he asked for his right loafer to be patched in the 1960s, with the tale inspiring the collection. If it’s good enough for him, it’s good enough for us. 

Yohji Yamamoto toyed with tradition 
@yohjiyamamotoofficial ©

Yohji Yamamoto is a master of his craft, and Fall/Winter 2024 saw the designer continue to push his detail-focused menswear approach. Veering away from the typically monochrome palette usually seen on the catwalk, we saw colour injected into outerwear through muted grey, and red coats which fell below the knee. The collection drew on traditional menswear components, such as semi-structured trilby-style hats, tailored jackets, and poets’ shirts. All in all, it was a timeless display of excellence and will age like a nice bottle of red. 

At.Kollektive was back for a fourth season

At.Kollektive season four was unveiled as part of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, and saw leather collections designed by Laura and Deanna Fanning, Peter Do, and Nina Christen. 

Kiko Kostadinov womenswear directors Laura and Deanna Fanning combined the ancient with a future-focused approach. This blend of old and new is often seen at Kiko Kostadinov and makes for exciting innovations, seen in At.Kollektive’s fourth season through space-age style Artemis Mary Janes, streamlined Jemison Shoes and studded Centori Coin purses. 

Peter Do built on his last season with At.Kollektive, crafting unisex pieces, including his brand’s first-ever sneaker. Named the Hybrid, it made use of durable leather construction channelled some New York Energy, designed to carry its wearer through everything from the gym to dinner, which sat alongside other footwear options, including a ballerina and loafer, and platform boots.

Nina Christen again built on the success of last season, designing a knock-out boxing boot that packs a punch. Also released were beefed-up ballet flats, finished with a textured rubber outsole that balanced durability and delicacy.

Balmain Homme was back with a bang

After a four-year hiatus, Balmain Homme returned to the Paris Fashion Week Men’s schedule. The return was bold, beautiful and filled with colour. It rode the line between traditional French silhouettes and African patterns, seen across boxy jackets and briefcases patterned overcoats. The House’s latest offering was oozing with luxury, seen in patent leather shoes, gold embellishments, headdresses and boxy tailoring. 

Creative Director Olivier Rousteing told the story of the collection after the show: “It’s my rebirth after four years of Balmain not showing menswear. It’s freedom, freedom of sketching, freedom of a wardrobe for men. The freedom of tomorrow. It’s about colours, it’s about craft, it’s about hope. And sketching thinking you not scared of dressing how you want because you’re not scared of judgement, you just want to please yourself and be free to be who you want to be.” 

Balmain Homme’s return showcased the inclusivity of menswear, where traditionally masculine silhouettes can be enjoyed beyond the parameters of gendered dressing. Naomi Campbell closed the show in a relaxed-fitting camel overcoat, which enveloped a blazer of the same colour and was worn with black relaxed-fitting pants. It was accessorised with a gold floral bouquet and bursting with Balmain’s opulent, detail-driven elegance. Bravo Olivier.

Kartik Research explored polarised realities 

For its latest collection, Kartik Research strived to explore the two Indias, where the “romantic fantasyland” is juxtaposed with a different reality of India rooted in a quick-paced modernity. Unveiled as part of Paris Fashion Week, the label’s latest campaign was shot at a sandstone mine in Jodhpur, which brand founder, Kartik Kumra, feels is stuck in a different era. The collection explores this tension through military-style structured tailoring, as well as traditionally Indian design detail, reflective of the brand’s goal to put forgotten Indian crafts back on the map. 

The FW24 collection features an upcoming collaboration with Bracauta, where the classic G9 jacket is crafted from quilted fabrics, and its trademark checked lining is developed on a handloom. It is rooted in the brand’s core values of celebrating and supporting Indian craftsmanship with a commitment to sustainability. 

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