Kyissorry

MEET THE MIND BEHIND EMERGING UTILITARIAN BRAND: KYISSORRY

MEET THE MIND BEHIND EMERGING UTILITARIAN BRAND: KYISSORRY

by Juliette Eleuterio
8 min
Kyissorry

Stumbling on a talented designer’s Instagram just to find out their web store is completely sold out is always heartbreaking. And Ky is the epitome of this feeling. Known as @kyissorry on Instagram, the self-taught young Canada-based designer creates utilitarian clothing with intricate cuts that just makes you want to slam your credit card on your table. From totes to pants to hoodies, jackets and puffers, Ky does it all in the most experimental of ways. And we’re not the only ones raving about his pieces. LA-based brand Renowned collaborated with the designer to create a pair of jeans, sold on their website and at Nordstrom. Though all items listed on his website are currently sold out, we will be keeping a close eye (and so should you) on his next release, bound to be as successful as his previous ones. We caught up with the designer to hear all about his introduction to garment-making, his design inspirations and his future aspirations.

 

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How did you get into garment-making and what has the journey so far been like?    

I started developing an interest in fashion design in high school. I attended a Catholic high school where we were required to wear uniforms, which of course fit horribly. So, my mother bought me a sewing machine so that I could taper/hem my uniform pants and that really  inspired me to get more creative with garment-making. Overtime, hemming and tapering pants developed into reworking old clothing and eventually creating my own garments.

Most of your designs consist of complex patterns. How did you learn to pattern cut? 

I would say that most of my pattern design development happened within the last year or so. At the beginning of 2020, before COVID shut the world down, I was enrolled in my first year of fashion design in Toronto. Before starting school, everything I learned was self-taught and very unorthodox. Although I was only in school for a short time, it really opened my eyes to the basic techniques and fundamentals of pattern drafting. It showed me just how much I didn’t know about the subject. Since leaving school I’ve been using my time to purchase as many books as possible on pattern drafting/development and really focus on building my skill in that specific area.

Most of your designs feel utilitarian and look purposeful. Where does your inspiration come from?

A lot of the inspiration behind my designs is honestly pretty fluid and spontaneous. Really it just comes down to my daily lifestyle and what I personally would want to wear. Since everything I design is handmade, I want to ensure each design is wearable as well as fashion forward. I try to make sure all design elements are practical for everyday wear while still maintaining a unique stand out design. For example, the tote bags I design have a cross body strap so the bag isn’t slipping down your shoulder while walking around. This strap adds a distinctive design feature but is also super practical. 

 

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What is your design process? How long does it take you to complete an item of clothing? Especially as you hand make them all by yourself. 

The process behind most of my designs just starts with an idea in my head. I am pretty unconventional when it comes to design and creation.  I rarely ever sketch down ideas, as I’m not the best at drawing, and for the time being I don’t really need to. Since I’m making all the garments myself, as long as I can visualize the idea I don’t need a physical sketch to explain to someone else.  Basically, I will come up with an idea in my head, sit on the idea for a couple days to make sure the design is something I truly enjoy and would/could wear every day. From there I will make a checklist of how I would go about physically making it – what sewing techniques to use and so on. Then I move onto drafting up a pattern for the garment. Since all the sample designs are made for me, I don’t usually make a full mockup in muslin. I already have a general idea of my overall fit. Instead, I will usually do small tests of the specific techniques used on the garment to make sure I can physically make the idea come to life as planned. After that, it’s really just cutting the pattern pieces out onto the fabric and sewing everything up.

You’ve designed jeans for Renowned. How different was it compared to your personal design process? 

Working with Renowned was such a great opportunity, but it was a bit different than my usual design process. First off, establishing a collaborative vision was a new thing. When I design my own clothing I “see” my ideas and create from there, whereas when working with Renowned I had to find a way to incorporate my design elements into their artistic vision.  Their brand identity had to be considered in my creative process.  

Secondly, like I mentioned earlier, I rarely ever sketch my ideas. Clearly that is needed when working with others, so I had to adjust my usual working style in that way too.

Originally, we had actually been working together on a few other designs for their latest collection. During that time, I made myself a personal pair of the jeans that they ended up featuring. They saw what I had made and we realized the design concept of the jeans worked  well with the theme of their collection and what we have previously been working on.  So, we decided to put them in.

After that, I sent over a copy of the pattern pieces along with a sample and they really handled the rest. I think the end result worked out great  and I was pretty excited to have been a part of it.

 

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Who would you love to see wear your designs?

I would love to see Kid Cudi wear my clothing at some point in time. He has consistently been one of my favourite musicians to listen to and I really admire him as an overall artist. Honestly though, I want to see my clothing on anyone and everyone that enjoys the designs. I still find it pretty mind blowing that people seem to appreciate my designs as much as I do.

Which brand or designer do you aspire to collaborate with and why? 

In all honesty, collaborations with other brands aren’t something I think about too often. Not to say I am opposed to the idea. I just wouldn’t really say it would be brand specific, as I tend to focus on the clothing itself.  As long as within the collaboration I have enough room to express my own point of view on the designs, and get along with whoever it may be I’m working with I’m open to whatever.

 

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How does sustainability come into play in your design process?

Sustainability is something I’m continuously thinking of ways to improve on, especially while the pandemic has limited access to resources. I have had to find some creative ways to continue creating new designs. For the first half of last year, while stores were all closed, I was using old curtains, jeans, leftover scrap fabrics, basically anything I could find for all my designs.  

Although I am certainly educating myself more on the benefits of sustainable production, I don’t currently live in an area where fashion is a major industry so finding organic fabrics and such is still pretty difficult.  That might be limiting, but I try to find small ways I can help around that. Things, like the fact that all of my samples are made for my personal wear, or orders online are made to order, help reduce throwing away unsold or unworn garments. I always try my best to avoid following trends as I don’t want my clothing to be unwearable in a few months when trends change. Recently, I’ve been playing around with using natural dyes for upcoming projects and have even found a way to use shredded up thread trimmings as a substitute for down or poly filling. With that being said I’m still going to be looking for more ways to incorporate sustainable practices into my brand as things grow.

Where do you see your brand in 3 years? 

Looking ahead and setting goals are what fuels my ambitions.  Obviously I want to create a reputable name in the industry and have fashion shows under my own brand.  Most importantly though I just want to see people wearing my clothing, and appreciate the designs I’m making. Everything I’m doing right now is still at a very early stage in my career. I still have so much to learn. So over the next few years as long as I’m continuously learning and organically growing my brand I will be happy.

 

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