London Fashion Week, despite what its name may suggest, is about more than the vivacious collections it exhibits. Let’s stop and take a minute to look above the sophistically stitched necklines to find a series of meticulously curated makeup looks and hair styles, designed to complement and enhance the clothes with which they are showcased.
Keep your eyes up here because it is time to kiss and make-up, as we bring you a runway beauty rundown.
MOLLY GODDARD
Molly Goddard’s collections are no stranger to making the most of their models’ makeup, with their looks having previously caught the eye of eagle-eyed fashion fiends. This season saw the designer return to their manipulation of the retro silhouette, alongside gender-free maxi skirts and plenty of tulle and ruffles. The models wore slicked-back hairdos and a bold, maroon lip. The rising trend of the bleached eyebrow also left an impression on this designer’s runway.
SIMONE ROCHA
Put the Photoshop away, because this red eye is here to stay. Sprinkled throughout Rocha’s latest collection was the fantastic use of a bold pinky, red eyeliner and shadow. The rest of the makeup was minimal, with a few looks featuring a cooler, pearl toned eyeshadow when the ensemble called for it.
The female models had their hair pulled back in low, middle-parted, up-dos. Most of which then complimented by a black, ringlet curled headband which emulated a vintage Aviator hat. The collection called upon an influence from the uniform of a paratrooper’s uniform, highlighted by straps which were intricately sewn to weave throughout, and hitch up the hemming of the pieces.
POSTER GIRL
The brand Poster Girl is known and praised for their refreshing manipulation of the Y2K aesthetic. The makeup revolved around a primarily neutrally toned palette, with the skin being built on by dewy foundations and smoothly glowing highlighter. When deemed necessary by the outfit, the decision was made to incorporate a shimmering, metallic eyeshadow.
Hair was neither up nor down, and was styled to fit the outfit the model walked in. Some even featured half up, half down, neon orange dip-dyed buns, which only acted to compliment the overall ensemble.
DILARA FINDIKOGLU
How can this collection’s hair and make-up be summed up? How I wish I looked after being caught in the rain. With confidently smudged, vibrantly red lipstick and slicked ‘wet” hairstyles, the beauty offering at Dilara only complimented the asymmetrically fantastic outfits. In many cases, strands of hair were brought forward to frame the model’s face in the most disheveled, yet on theme, way possible.
The rest of the makeup was simple, and plain, bringing attention to the chaos of the smudged lipstick and the overall sentiment of the collection, which was inspired by the feeling of being trapped.
MASHA POPOVA
The Ukrainian designer’s collection featured some divinely appropriate hairstyles for the outfits the models walked in. One in particular, exhibited the model’s hair pulled into a series of miniature space buns, with her fringe being pinned back by a large number of silver hair pins.
Black winged liner proved to be the star of the makeup looks walked in, with the lip and foundations remaining exquisitely natural. Popova’s work also showcased half-up, half-down, up-dos, with the ponytail portion being crimped. Y2K galore.
CHOPOVA LOWENA
SS23 marked the runway debut of Chopova, and exhibited a certain favouritism for bold, black eyeliner, which contrasted with some of the softer, more playful fabrics and prints used throughout the collection. Just south of the winged eyes, the models’ lips were outlined by a mocha brown lip liner, which was not coupled by a lipstick of the matching shade. Some hairstyles were slicked back, while others showcased softly curled fringes. Peppered throughout the styles were top knots pulled to just above the right eyebrow, with the rest of the hair hanging low and plaited in sections.
HALPERN
The bold colours and prints featured throughout this collection means that the use of neon orange, thick, winged liner should come as no surprise. If anything, this makeup decision perfectly played into Halpern’s reputation as an evening wear artiste. The rest of the makeup was wonderfully simple and reserved. Sponsored by Barbie, the collection included voluptuously volumed, pastel pink, curled hairdos. While other models walked in deadly straight, slicked in place ponytails.
KNWLS
This show gave new life to the phrase ‘getting your roots done’, and that breath of life is glitter, all things glitter. The fantastically soft, pastel pink pieces were topped with a reverse dip dye, from the root downwards, pink glitter. With a similar style also being matched with the outfits of a cooler tone, yet this time were finalised with a darker blue, root shimmer.
The makeup coupled with these bold hairstyles were surprisingly and satisfactorily neutral. The eye makeup picked resonated with the overall shimmering collection, as the models eyeshadow were made up of metallic tones of silver, gold and bronze.
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