We linked up with LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi at Paris Fashion Week to chat about his new FW25 collection, his relationship with Raf Simons and something he’s never said publicly.
Today in Paris, Louis Gabriel Nouchi hit up Palais de Tokyo to show off his latest FW25 collection which tackled a mammoth of a cultural book: 1984 by George Orwell. Set in a dystopian world controlled by a totalitarian state, the themes and notions of the book directly correlate with the effects of Donald Trump’s inauguration, a common theme amongst the scheduled designers this season.
Known for rejecting traditional gender and body norms, LGN creates clothing that’s made for comfort in self expression with contemporary, fluid cuts that highlight the sensuality of the body. His eponymous label has been standing tall since 2017 and it’s clear that, at this stage, he’s surpassed the title of emerging designer.
Can you run us through the collection - what's the story behind it?
“This collection is deeply emotional for me. It shows my complex relationship with the outside world, a melange of desire and fear. It’s also about how we can appease our appeal for love and sex, while being rejected by society for it.
It’s important to play with archetype and connotation/association of black velvet and transparent jersey like lingerie, brutalist leather and brushed hairy cow with mouliné jacquard wool, power shoulder jacket and shelter blankets. The color palette is also very precise and evocative - black, bone, khaki - that link to uniform, evening wear, and underwear. Jogging suits and denim are tracked into a more sartorial and elegant world, we use a lot of zippers as I really like the sharp connotation of slashes on a garment - using their “teeth” to open, reveal skin. Spikes on the new minimal “socks [Puma] Mostro” represent aggression, which are also developed into the latex gloves and bags.”
I know you said you were steering away from using books as inspirations for collections last season but were you reading anything during the process of making this collection that sparked some ideas for this show?
“I didn’t want to use books as a barrier, a way to hide - even if it’s still a very strong source of inspiration. As for this collection, the starting point was 1984 by George Orwell. I don’t want to stay limited in this and that it’s becoming a gimmick. The feeling and impression I’d like people to feel when they see the show are the looks, the models, the pieces in store.
That's what I had in mind for this world like the videoclip of Duran Duran “The Chauffeur” and Charlotte Rampling in “The Night Porter” on top of this despotic atmosphere - this idea of censure, danger, and forbiddeness.
But for sure I was reading during this collection! As I’m doing everyday before sleeping - my last one next to my bed was “La végétarienne” by Han Kang.”
Apart from literature, where do you look for inspiration and references - what stimulates your mind creatively?
“I’m watching a lot of anime, which is still a big source of inspiration from when I was a child. I try to go to art exhibitions as much as possible, but it’s complicated with my crazy schedule. It may sound cliché but being away in the countryside and watching the sea is a true moment of pleasure - maybe I’m getting old.
My husband and my friends are my chosen family and they inspire me every day. I feel very proud to have such amazing people around me.”
You have a clear admiration for the human body and this idea of intimacy, why do you think these are so important in the space of Menswear?
"The way we can show our body is extremely codified, it’s a cultural, social thing - it’s political. I’m obsessed with what we are “allowed” to do and what society expects from us as a man. The female body has been sexualized for centuries, but it’s completely different for us and I hate to be told what to do!
My look represents my daily mood, I don’t want to be put into a box. I didn’t expect to have that much of an impact and reaction by just showing different body types on the runway as it’s something very natural for me! Our first product, completely unexpected, was a brief a few years ago so I had to dive into this intimate world - I didn’t have to work that much on the shoot for that one, it’s just a body in the image! It’s way much more difficult than a classic lookbook. I had to define the tone of the brand and what I wanted to express. Working on the Paralympics this summer was also a life changer for me and I’m very proud to include a Para Athlete on the runway this season.”
You’ve been venturing into more womenswear over the past couple of seasons - how has it affected the way you see your work and process?
“I was very afraid of doing womenswear. I didn’t feel “legitimate” to do this as I’m a man and so it was complicated for me to try and make the garments. I didn't want the woman to be a man’s fantasy. The LGN man is so fierce that I wanted the girl to be the same, it’s not a couple situation at all. The LGN woman is more of a friend, a colleague, a rival - she doesn’t need anyone to get what she wants. It was a major focus for us this season: to have more distinction between the two while being connected. I wanted the LGN woman to be as empowered as the man.”
What category of clothing is your favourite to make and why?
"I think it’s coats and tailored jackets. It’s such an archetype and almost an obligation in menswear, I’ve been working on it for years. I like the fact that there's a frame, they’re extremely coifed pieces so it allows you to be even more creative. It’s also personal - a tailored jacket is the last piece I would wear personally as I find it too formal, I feel I’m wearing a costume when I’m in one. That’s why I wanted to create the brand: to create garments I feel good inside without feeling like it’s outside of my comfort zone. I’m obsessed with the fact that you're automatically elegant when you have a garment that fits you, it’s empowering."
Who are some designers on this season’s PFW schedule that you admire? Any designers in general that you grew up loving or being inspired by?
"Rick Owens, Prada, and Yohji Yamamoto."
Who were some fellow classmates or alumni from your time in La Cambre that you still keep in touch with? How’s your relationship with them?
"We all have crazy schedules so we generally see each other during events at Paris Fashion Week. It’s always really cool and super nice to see them; like Marine Serre, Ester Manas, Mariam Mazmishvili, Anais Lalu.
I'm extremely happy for Julian [Klausner] for his appointment at Dries [Van Noten], he really deserves it! He's extremely talented and he will perfectly incarnate the spirit of the house in a Belgian way. People like Matthieu Blazy are also very supportive. La Cambre is a very familial school, we were very few students during our time there. That’s why I think we created strong relationships between each other. One of the key members in my team, Charlotte, was also in school in a different sector. My main photographer, Ismael, I also met him at school. Also Baptiste on accessories who we are working with on a special project, it’s really a family."
What was it like working under Raf Simons?
"It gave me all my rules that I still apply in my everyday life: the rigor in the creative process, how to manage your team in the most humble way, staying true to yourself, how to be radical, stretching ideas, how you can understand the full collection’s spirit in 1 t-shirt, the importance of meanings in colours."
Do you still have a relationship with Simons?
"I’m still in contact with part of the team, Bianca and Tiziana, who are women that I really admire."
Finally, can you tell us something about yourself or your work that you’ve never said publicly?
"I’m proud of myself."
All featured images via Louis Gabriel Nouchi©
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