Diesel’s SS24 show closed off the first day of Milan Fashion Week that saw creative director Glenn Martens do what he does best: selling a bedroom-on-the-runway fantasy and resurrecting denim. His SS24 collection was a continuation of his three (now four) season body of work, taking over by one look as his largest collection with a total of 73 different looks.
With that many looks and such a grand production for the occasion, there’s lots to take in. In case you missed our TikTok livestream hosted by Gabbriette where she gave us the lowdown on the collection and interviewed guests, we’ve compiled a list of key takeaways from the show to stay in the know.
Let it pour in the great outdoors of Milano
This season, Diesel chose to host its show outdoors in Milan. It opened up its event to the public once again, breaking down the elitist barriers that are innate to the industry, and honestly we love to see it. Unfortunately for the thousands of people who flocked to the show, it started raining about an hour prior to the show. Though, this sort of played out well for Diesel, as models were given that (natural) wet look that only amplified the sexual energy of the evening.
Despite the rain, Diesel’s show set-up was as spectacular as always. Last season it was a mountain of Diesel x Durex condoms, the one giant inflatable figures straddling each other, and this season it was a giant screen that adorned the front of the Diesel-red runway. It was a move away from a glaringly obvious sex object, though with intent, as the set will be used this weekend for the Film Festival, which, by the way, is also open to the public and free of charge.
All your favs were there
Diesel knows how to ace a guest list. TikTok and Instagram it girl Gabbriette was there, this time not walking but livestreaming the show for Culted. Of course, fashion rogue man Tommy Cash was there as well as Vroom Vroom popstar Charli XCX and political and economic state of the world advocate Jaden Smith.
For a succsexful living
It’s no secret that Diesel’s aesthetic is big time NSFW ever since Martens injected it with a healthy dosage of sultriness, and he’s clearly not stopping anytime soon. Skirts were made mini, midriffs were exposed, tops were sheer, cutouts were emphasised, necklines plunged, thongs were intentionally put on display… You get the picture. One series of looks in particular showcased a nude latex-like material that clung onto the models bodies giving condom-chic.
On the far end of the sexy spectrum, we saw breasts and bottoms laid practically bare underneath sequined and knitted dresses. It wasn’t just straight up nudity that found itself on the runway but also hints at nudity, including on a look that consisted of jeans that were made see through in practically all areas except for the ones that needed covering (and the ankle-to-shin region) paired with a Diesel-printed grey tank top though the print seemed to have washed off in a rather revealing manner.
Diesel has entered its graphics era
Graphics were only briefly covered last season with a few mouth-printed pieces, a symbol representative of an erogenous zone as well the focus of Diesel’s SS23 video brand campaign. This season though, Martens went full out on the graphics. We saw ‘Diesel Adventure’ printed onto a tee alongside automobile visuals, a 1DR popstar-poster graphic tee and a jacket that featured the brand’s D burning up in flames.
The graphic looks were scattered towards the end of the collection, alongside heavily-ripped clothing that almost looks like it was burnt in a fire. From afar, those pieces look like they could be decorated with some graphic elements but upon closer inspection, it becomes clear that it’s all fabric juxtaposition and manipulation. A purposeful visual trick or an open catering to those who prefer going graphicless, either way, it’s Martens way of showing us that his experimentation at Diesel is just getting started.
The denim was demining
Above the sexual innuendos, the smart logo branding, public shows, and all else, it’s Martens ability to give us a new perspective on denim that is making his time at Diesel unprecedentedly successful. Denim has become an inherently basic material – jeans, jorts, skirts and jackets, all have been seen, done and worn before. But for Martens, denim is his kryptonite and radicalising it is his calling.
In this show, denim was slashed, bleached, dyed, shredded to the point of almost being unrecognisable as denim anymore. Take, for example, look 17, a plunging V-neck cardigan distressed to the point where it looks like it could be wool.
It’s also in the way Glens designs shapes that challenge the capabilities of denim. It takes the form of multi-pocketed army-style trousers, skirts that look like mummified wrappings, and even as a layered piece in the shape of diamond grid netting. Martens has kept the core of Diesel intact while simultaneously giving it a much-needed, complete 360 makeover.
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