Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2024 was good for the soul

Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2024 was good for the soul

by Ollie Cox
3 min

Jil Sander set the pace for Fall/Winter 2024 as it invited show guests into its creative universe, where washed lime-green walls and carpets paved the way for a deep blue cluster of blown-up gramophones which filled the floor. This set the tone of what was to come, as the expected kick drum of a techno soundtrack, which usually accompanies fashion shows, was swapped out for a soothing live performance from Benji B and Mk.Gee, who fused slowed-down electronic beats with soulful vocals and guitar chords. 

While the Jil Sander brand is often hailed as a pioneer of minimalism, thanks to its clean, often stripped back, and considered approach to design since its 1967 foundation,  Lucie and Luke Meier’s vision for the label falls more under the reductionist umbrella and is less focused on the long-standing labels attached to the brand. 

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Opening looks saw loose-fitting pants and a button-closure tunic with billowing sleeves, arriving in a striking red and brown hue, accessorised with sparkling silver and brown scarves, which shimmered in the light. The palette then moved to a soft cream, with a silver, tasselled headpiece providing contrast, drawing parallels with 1920s flapper decadence. 

Far from monochrome, contrast was crucial to this Jil Sander collection. Broaches were attached to wide-reaching flat lapels, which rested comfortably on its wearer’s shoulders, and silver earrings dangled from earlobes, bouncing with each step. A knitted pink dress assumed a cocoon-like structure, with red high-heeled boots protruding from below. Silver chain mail-like detailing lined tailored trousers, dominated floor-length strapless dresses, and formed “V” shaped tassel detailing across black tank tops. 

Long-line tailored coats were finished with low-profile lapels, where blue, fur-filled slippers added an extra layer of colour, with further contrast provided with a gold handbag carried under its wearer’s arm. Boxy relaxed tailoring saw jackets paired with loose-fitting shorts followed by an array of light brown suiting. 

Proportion was Lucie and Luke Meier Meier’s plaything this season, as quilted dresses and short-sleeved shirts were finished with exaggerated shoulders. Puffer jackets appeared inflated and fell below the knee, were finished with a high-neck and arrived in a black and maroon hue. An effortlessly chic sophistication collided with comfortable padded dresses as velour-style one-pieces were paired with stand-out hair-like bags, which offered an almost attention-grabbing addition to the collection. 

It’s Jil Sander’s World, and we’re just living in it. For Fall/Winter 2024, we were invited to slow down and enjoy the cross-pollination of live performance and fashion, where Lucie and Luke Meier Meier presented a forward-looking collection, less attached to previous labels of minimalism but still distinctly Jil Sander. 

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