Set in Paris’ renowned art deco club Le Palace, a place which was frequented by Hedi Slimane himself in his formative years, as well as icons from Mick Jagger to Andy Warhol without forgetting Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld, CELINE’s FW23 was a reminiscence of 70s rock and nightlife culture with an early 00s electronic twist.
Accompanied by the sounds of 70s proto-punk NYC-born band Suicide, models are seen strutting out in boxy jackets, almost all wearing shaded sunglasses creating an air of effortless cool. Showing off the regular schedule, the collection, titled “Paris Syndrome”, felt like it was made for those who pass by security just by saying “I’m with the band”. Leather was a key component used throughout, such as on a black and white-fringed jacket, skinny trousers and motorcycle inspired gear.
Elsewhere we saw faux fur oversized jackets, one in a black and white blurred animal print and other in a classic leopard print. The clothing oozed with command, as everyone in the room turned heads at each new look. Though very inspired by the past, the collection still felt youthful with the use of skinny neck scarves and a restrained use of prints, with Slimane preferring timeless silhouettes and a tonal colour palette.
Standout pieces include a boxy beige oversized coat paired with skinny trousers, a high neck black tee and a loosely buttoned shirt, as well as a cropped jacket with decorative pockets and a bow-like neck piece. The sheer-wearing club kids met the leather clad groupies in Paris Syndrome, bridging today’s youth culture with Slimane’s design perspective and CELINE’s core brand DNA.
While the clothes and the location of the show were a spectacle themselves, BLACKPINK’s Lisa made an appearance which only added more excitement to the nightclub event. She came in line with the show’s aesthetic, donning an all black look consisting of a mesh bralette and tights, paired with knee-high boots and a fur-lined coat, finished all with a gold leopard-print clutch bag, and Twitter hasn’t stopped talking about it since.
Slimane did what he does best: create a collection that plays on the ideas of desire, forming a cool band of youthful figures and I want to be a part of it. His efforts to turn CELINE into a Gen Z revival of punk-rock culture with a luxurious edge are not in vain, as the designer has successfully curated a wardrobe full of nonchalant “f*ckt it” attitude.
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