Why was the biggest trend at FW24… hair?

Why was the biggest trend at FW24… hair?

by Robyn Pullen
6 min

Ok, so we all know that nothing’s more predictable than florals for Spring, but this Fall/Winter 2024 Fashion Month we spotted a trend on the runway that was anything but predictable: hair. From handbags at Jil Sander to the entire collection at Marni, why was FW24 so hairy? No seriously, what was with all the hair?

Simone Rocha gave accessories a trim
@antoninmongin ©

Our first indication of hair becoming a runway trend this season was back at Paris Couture Week, when Simone Rocha revealed hair accessories at Jean Paul Gaultier’s Couture show, and no, we don’t mean accessories for your hair. They were actually made from hair. Earrings and even footwear on the runway were designed out of human hair, with the help of textile artist Antonin Mongin and Parisian accessories brand D’heygere. As intriguing as the concept of hair as accessories was, it wasn’t something we thought we’d see again at FW24. As you already know, we were wrong. 

Galliano brought the merkin to Maison Margiela
Maison Margiela ©

Only one day later, also at Paris Couture Week, John Galliano unveiled an interesting use of hair at Maison Margiela’s Artisanal show in the form of merkins. For those who don’t know, the merkin is a pubic wig dating back to the 15th Century. It was originally worn by prostitutes who shaved for hygiene reasons but still wanted the illusion of having pubic hair. Although not out of place at the immersive doll-house that was Maison Margiela’s Artisanal 2024 show, it was a surprising second sign of the FW24 “hair” trend we were starting to spot.

JW Anderson said “wig” (literally)
JW Anderson ©

Flying from Paris Couture Week to London Fashion Week, hair wasn’t yet a trend at the front of our minds. However, that was until designer Jonathan Anderson debuted his FW24 collection for his eponymous brand, JW Anderson. The collection was self-described as an elevated take on the “nosey neighbour” trope, and featured a myriad of models walking wearing hats designed to look like grey curls, in a caricature of the “nosey neighbour.” Finally, we had our first example of hair actually being worn on models’ heads.

Prada made faux curls fashion
Prada ©

The hat-slash-wigs at JW Anderson were unusual enough on their own, but before we knew it, Prada had joined in on the trend too with similarly hairy hats on its runway in Milan. Differing from JW Anderson’s grey curls, Prada’s renditions appeared in a much wider spectrum of colours and silhouettes, with hair seen on riding hats and sailor hats in an elevated style. 

Marni took hair to the next level
Marni ©

Stepping into Milan Fashion Week, our eyes were peeling for more hair-related runway looks, and Marni certainly didn’t disappoint. At Marni’s FW24 show hair was seen draped across models’ backs, trailing along the floor, and even covering bags and coats; it was everywhere. Given the collection was inspired by the notion of taking fashion design back to its innate roots, the use of hair added an animalistic touch to looks. Paired with painted jackets and stark silhouettes, the impact was hairy yet elevated. From Marni onwards, the FW24 hair trend officially became a thing.

Jil Sander came in clutch with hairy bags
Jil Sander ©

Then, also in Milan, hair appeared at Jil Sander’s FW24 show, taking the form of bags you could actually stroke. In a variety of shades from grey to green, the bags were seen clutched in models’ hands, almost appearing like tiny living creatures with soft, sweeping locks that swung as they were carried. All we were left wondering post show was: why buy a pet when you can just invest in one of these Jil Sander cuties?

Schiaparelli brought tailored hair to Paris
Schiaparelli ©

The last show on our list, Schiaparelli, undeniably had the most elevated take on the trend by turning traditionally tailored ties into twisted knots of hair. Over in Paris for the brand’s Ready-to-Wear show, we saw flawlessly designed suits, cut to rigid perfection, and paired with an usual accessory: ties designed out plaited hair in blonde and brunette shades. 

It seems hair is having its moment on the FW24 runways, but what do you make of the trend? We have to admit, it’s growing on us.

Featured image via Marni ©

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