Stepping into a P.L.N. runway show is like stepping into Berghain: the ambience is dark, the music is loud, and the clothes speak volumes. For “COLLECTION III” designer Peter Lundvald Nielsen offered us an expansion of his universe deeply inspired by European punk culture by creating a cohesive collection which feels like a skimpier albeit natural progression of his last showing.
Set in an all-black room only lit dimly by overhead spotlights, models fiercely walked down the runway alongside the sounds of Fetisch Park, a German musical duo who specialise in industrial and ambient techno. The first look included key elements of the collection to come, which included an almost all-black look made up of leather trousers and a top made out of burgundy hair, attached at the neck with a thick black choker and finished off with a belt-sized wrapping around the chest.
The use of hair could be found on garments and accessories, such as on a statement necklace or on the end of sleeves, just as well as on the models eyelashes, including two braids which fell just about waist level, elevating Nielsen’s artistic level. Other standout pieces include a black jacket with zips for hems, a floor-length leather jacket which uses a two-belt choker system for its fastening and an oversized distressed hooded black coat which was finished off with, again, fake hair.
Only three collections and two fashion weeks in, Nielsen has led his brand to have a strong creative vision. The designer had previously worked for Balenciaga and Vetements under the helm of Demna Gvasalia, which is made clear when looking at his designs which, much like Demna, takes inspiration from BDSM and fetishwear. With its use and manipulation of materials, P.L.N. manages to convey its vision of a gender-free post-apocalyptic world, where techno and leather reigns supreme.
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