Halfway through Tokyo Fashion Week, and there's too many sick designers to choose from. Technical jackets with built-in fans, Nirvana knits, librarian-chic and alien couture – the SS25 season is cold. Here are our highlights from TFW so far.
Hidesign
The workwear designer duo Hideo Yoshii and Souta Yamaguchi, who only recently entered the fashion space, presented their “Blue Collar” collection displaying their function-meets-fashion vision dubbed as “work couture”. In preparation for global warming, Hidesign introduced a “man’t not hot” body-cooling, inflatable vest with a built-in fan.
Fetico
For her collection “The Secrets”, designer Emi Funamaya took inspiration from a pre-social media era (where people still had some mystery), featuring polka dots, sheer fabrics, bold shoulders, football-esque sneakers and bayonet librarian glasses. The vision is giving an eccentric-yet-sultry secretary vibe that resonates with the current corpcore womenswear zeitgeist.
Seivson
If you like Rick Owens, you’re definitely going to like Seivson. Designer Tzu Chin Shen is known for her gothic, post-apocalyptic avant-garde designs, and her SS25 collection did not disappoint. It featured bulky shoulders and pleated distressed silks as well as repurposed trench coats. Her alien-esque aesthetic would have FKA Twigs salivating.
Kamiya
With its grunge, dirtbag skaterboy vibes Kamiya brought a collection which smelled like teen spirit. Inspired by vintage shops, skater culture, rock and hip-hop, the designer showed baggy, faded jorts and oversized overshirts, ripped Kurt Cobain-style knits, ‘90s floral prints and flannels.
Wild Fräulein
Distressed knit dresses, nylon utilitarian tracksuits, and a dress made out of belts walked on Wild Fräulein’s SS25 presentation, filled with neutrals and blue tones. The collection brought a brutalist aesthetic mirroring the dark, streetwear aesthetic of the current culture.
Shinyakozuka
Shinyakozuka’s spring 2025 collection was a hallucinogenic daydream, bringing balloons, cats and paint splatters to the runway. The colour blue was the main character: suits, shirts, a glittery, sheer jumpsuit, shoes and accessories as well as the carpet all had a deep, royal blue hue.
Meagratia
Meagratia gave us what Japan does best: fire denim. See the faded, blue-grey colours, the pleated denim pants, the perfectly distressed pockets. But the designer didn’t stop there: sleek, buttery nylon workwear pieces, zips and embroidery also complemented the denim ensembles of the collection – we call it distressed minimalism.
Featured image Hidesign©
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