Balenciaga finally announced its new creative director last week – Pierpaolo Piccioli (formerly CD at Valentino) will be succeeding Demna in July.
Under Demna, the Parisian house came strong with oversized silhouettes in bombers, hoodies and sneakers, a major streetwear focus, and commentary on culture. But looks like there’s a vibeshift incoming: the legendary couture house won’t be going down the casual route for long. Pierpaolo will do a 180º, for sure. His work at Valentino was hyper-feminine, catering to a more upscale luxury consumer. Pierpaolo’s aesthetic is more refined, more Italian, and more conventional compared to Demna’s brutalist, groundbreaking vision.
Balenciaga is about to go into its old-school ways, as in its pre-Demna era. Pierpaolo is set to deliver for the femme consumer with more classic and traditional takes on the house’s codes: in ready-to-wear, accessories, and couture (his work at Valentino shows exactly what he’s capable of). And for the menswear? We expect sleek, timeless, subtle yet colourful silhouettes (in comparison to Demna’s oversized tailoring).
Femme focus
Since Demna joined Balenciaga in 2015, it’s fair to say that the house catered more to its menswear consumers, and Demna – with Martine Rose as a consultant – brought the Balenci we know to life. But, Pierpaolo is first and foremost a womenswear designer. The house will be prioritising its womenswear collections with Pierpaolo on the reins. His Italian sophisticated-meets-avant-garde aesthetic will bring that classically commercial restart to the brand.
Insane couture
Piccioli’s extensive resumé at Valentino shows what he can do with couture (notable looks include Rihanna’s 2023 Met Gala white rose cape and Lady Gaga’s pink feathered gown at the Venice Film Festival). His rich, silky fabrics, hourglass silhouettes, insane shapes, 10/10 tailoring, and detailed craftsmanship give a glimpse of what Balenciaga might look like when he takes over. Balenciaga only resurrected its couture house a few seasons ago, and it’s obvious that the company wants to develop that aspect of the brand – Piccioli’s expertise lies in couture, so we’re set to see excellent creations that will thrive on red carpets. And Balenciaga confirmed it, as Kering’s deputy CEO Francesca Bellettini said on Piccioli’s appointment: ““His mastery of haute couture, his creative voice, and his passion for savoir-faire made him the ideal choice for the house.”
Archive Cristóbal Balenciaga references
Piccioli has named Cristóbal Balenciaga as a major influence in his work, so we’re expecting strong archive references. In his announcement Piccioli said: “I’m not a fan of predestination but as I was scrolling my personal IG page, I realised that the very first picture I’ve uploaded was the 1967 wedding ensemble by Cristóbal Balenciaga. Don’t know if I should take it as a sign, what I know is that now I can see the bigger picture.”
He continued: “Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy and archive is probably one of the most influential fashion statements of all time. He has done everything before everyone; he has literally invented the culture of creativity; he has infused the idea of couture in every aspect of his career. And he has shown, through his creations, the power of evolution and innovation.”
Piccioli has been referencing Balenciaga throughout his career: the bows in his Spring 2018 couture, the roses in his Fall 2023 couture, the feathers in his FW21, the hourglass figures, the drapes, the cuts. And he’s for sure going to bring more to the house of Balenciaga. We’re so here for a Cristóbal stan.
Sleeker silhouettes
Demna’s Balenci was oversized, exaggerated and casual. Pierpaolo’s will probably be sleeker, more sophisticated and a little bit more formal. Pierpaolo’s Italian heritage and design aesthetic calls to more opulent designs with cinches and fine tailoring. The new Balenci silhouettes will probably lean towards more classic shapes, bringing radical change to the brand, and throwing it back to the pre-Demna days.
Strong colours
Pierpaolo Piccioli is known for his vivid use of colour. The triple P saturates his collections with hot pinks, bold reds and royal blues – not shying away from being loud with his hues. And even though Pierpaolo loves his all-black looks, his collections are bound to be more vibrant in comparison to Demna’s brutalist, Soviet-inspired muted colourways, who used pops of colour (like neons and blues) more sparingly in his collections.
Featured image Valentino©
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