Haider Ackermann is continuing to shape his own vision of Tom Ford, returning to Paris for Spring/Summer 2027 with a collection that explored what happens when seduction begins to move into more dangerous territory.
From the provocative glamour that defined Tom Ford’s years at Gucci to the razor-sharp tailoring and unapologetic sexuality of his eponymous label, desire has never existed far from the surface. Under Ackermann, however, that language is being approached from a different angle.
For SS27, sexuality did not need to demand attention. Instead, Ackermann found power in suggestion, building a wardrobe around the tension of revealing something without giving everything away. Skin appeared throughout, but exposure was balanced against precision, creating a push and pull between vulnerability and control.
It was an approach that placed the body at the centre of the collection without simply relying on nakedness for impact. Clothes framed and revealed the figure in calculated ways, while Ackermann’s typically controlled approach to silhouette brought a sense of restraint to even the collection’s most provocative moments.
SS27 imagined the excitement that comes with allowing yourself to move slightly beyond what feels comfortable, whether that means staying out longer than planned, following somebody somewhere you probably shouldn’t or holding a stranger’s gaze just long enough for the interaction to become something else.
Ackermann explored the moments when attraction becomes instinctive and spontaneity takes over. Fragility and confidence were allowed to exist alongside one another, while the possibility of losing control became part of the appeal.
The house is associated with a very deliberate kind of sexiness, one built around confidence, glamour and knowing exactly the effect you are having on the room. Ackermann hasn't abandoned that foundation, but he is gradually complicating it.
His Tom Ford woman and man can still command attention, but they don't necessarily appear to be asking for it. There is something more elusive at play, where the person underneath the clothes becomes as important as the image being projected outward.
For Ackermann, that is where SS27 found its sexuality. Not necessarily in provocation for provocation's sake, but in anticipation. It made for a collection that understood the foundations Tom Ford was built upon while resisting the temptation to simply recreate them. Instead, Ackermann pushed the house's sensuality somewhere quieter, less predictable and potentially more dangerous.
