Yesterday’s Simone Rocha show saw London’s suave Goldsmiths Hall transformed into a runway with an all-star cast, with it-girl Alexa Chung, actresses Andrea Riseborough, Bell Powley, and Fiona Shaw among the line-up.
The collection itself was a turning point in Rocha’s evolution: splashes of her signature coquettish whimsy could still be found, but were dominated (and brought into sharp relief) by black leathers, lock-chain hardware, harnesses, and ample zips.
It was these looks that presumably referenced the bad girl at school, with the show’s press release reading “School days haze. Twisted twin sets. Behind the bike shed.” Indeed, according to her post-show interview with Vogue Runway, the wider collection was based on Rocha’s experience of school (she attended the prestigious Alexandra College in Dublin). Which is amusing, as she’s admitted to being “the worst student at school” in the past.
Other looks saw the naive schoolgirl archetype who takes a while to grow up, carrying around her comfort teddy—in this case, a stuffed hare, referencing the fable, The Tortoise and The Hair, which Rocha was introduced to back in school by her principle embodied by a stern Shaw. (She gave us detention PTSD fr.)
Stand-out detailing came in the form of faux fur detailing and pelts, a shredded dress made of danging ribbons, and the shredded skirts of coats and nightie-style dresses, calling to mind the skirts made of ties seen at Thom Browne earlier this season.
For a while it felt like Rocha may not have much space to evolve— stuck in the high-femme, ribbon aesthetic (which, as an internet micro trend, has died out) forever. But this season she proved she’s more than a one-trick pony: and makes clothes for more than just the good girls.
Images via Simone Rocha
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