Matières Fécales took over one of Paris’ most recognisable public spaces for Spring/Summer 2027, becoming the first fashion label to stage a runway show at Place de la République.
Designer Steven Raj Bhaskaran turned the occasion into a statement about who fashion can represent. Created alongside longtime creative partner Hannah Rose, “THE NINETY NINE PERCENT” centred immigrant experiences, working-class communities and marginalised identities, with 99 looks presented entirely on models of colour.
The collection unfolded as a three-part story, moving through “FAMILY,” “TRIBE” and finally “GODS.” Each chapter pulled from a different part of Bhaskaran’s identity and experiences, using the clothes to move from intimate ideas of home and heritage towards community, rebellion and something altogether more monumental.
White draping was joined by cotton shirting informed by the Thawb, while silk trench coats were punctuated with hardware and micro-pleated chiffon was worked into modest skirts. Matières Fécales also used the opening chapter to reveal its collaboration with Christian Louboutin, creating flip-flops elevated by dramatically curved heels.
Bhaskaran stepped onto the runway accompanied by his mother, sister and niece, bringing his own family directly into a collection built around the people and experiences that shaped him.
From there, “TRIBE” changed the energy as the label's darker, more confrontational aesthetic took over through military-influenced tulle and tweed, distressed lamb leather capes and metallic gloves dubbed “Golden Touch.” Heavy “Stomper” combat boots grounded the looks, tapping into the alternative subcultures that have long informed the Matières Fécales universe.
For the final chapter, “GODS,” the collection expanded beyond Bhaskaran's immediate surroundings to spotlight craft from different parts of the world. Cotton suits were hand-woven by Cabes Gie in Burkina Faso, while embroidered sarees produced by Tilfi artisans in Varanasi, India, were transformed into deteriorating takes on extravagant 1950s ball gowns.
As Nina Simone's “Tomorrow Is My Turn” played across Place de la République, models moved around the monument carrying realistic figures depicting billionaires, creating a deliberately provocative final image centred on wealth and power.
The message behind “THE NINETY NINE PERCENT” will also continue beyond the runway, with a portion of sales from Matières Fécales' SS27 collection being set to benefit La Maison d'Allanah, an organisation providing housing for LGBTQIA+ refugees in France.
