Whilst we now know fashion collaborations are part and parcel of the industry, they were far less common before Marc Jacobs. Previously high fashion houses would tend to not venture into niche communities for their collaborations. When he joined Louis Vuitton in 1997, Marc set out to change that.
What set Marc Jacobs tenure at LV apart from other Creative Directors at the time is that he chose his collaborators based on talent rather than status or net worth. In an effort to combat the elitist nature and inaccessible heritage of the fashion world, he looked to graffiti artists like Stephen Sprouse and rappers including Ye to work with, something that few luxury houses were prepared to do at the time.
And whilst it was a bold move, it was effective. Marc Jacobs’ collaborations at Louis Vuitton nearly didn’t come to fruition, with the brand fighting to keep its branding sacred by telling Marc not to mess with the monogram. But he did anyway, and it's how we got the brand’s infamous collaborations with Takashi Murakami in 2003 and Richard Prince in 2008.
Capturing the zeitgeist by offering bold, playful, fun reinventions of Louis Vuitton’s infamous accessories, Marc Jacobs launched the brand into the limelight, capturing the attention of a younger audience. Even the Louis Vuitton Don x Kanye West drop in 2009, when he linked up with the rapper to design a set of colour-blocked sneakers, placed LV in a new context.
Since leaving Louis Vuitton in 2013, Marc Jacobs has been bringing the same unabashed attitude to collaborations at his eponymous brand, transforming his playful approach to design into linkups with the likes of Cactus Plant Flea Market, Anna Sui, Pat McGrath, and Smiley.
What makes his collaborations stand out is that they fully embrace the vibe and style of the brand, designer, or artist he’s working with, rather than forcing them to conform to his. Marc Jacobs’ vision isn’t a box for its collaborators to fit into; it’s more of a platform for them to stand on.
Just look at his latest drop with artist and pioneer Futura, arriving in the form of a capsule collection that’s an ode to the ‘80s graffiti movement headed up by Futura himself, and you’ll see how Marc Jacobs has allowed his brand to bend to Futura’s aesthetic, rather than the other way around.
Whilst many high fashion brands would prioritise their own rigid brand guidelines when planning partnerships, Marc Jacobs has always approached collaborations with the attitude that it’s his collaborator who’s the focal point.
From backing the streets by working with graffiti artists like Stephen Sprouse to supporting emerging designers like Anna Sui, Marc Jacobs collaborations are made by the people, for the people. And that’s why, when it comes to collaborations, he’s the GOAT.
FYI, the new Marc Jacobs x Futura collaboration is available from 6th September at Marc Jacobs' Regent Street and the Selfridges Atrium pop-up.
Featured image via Marc Jacobs©
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