Maison Margiela turned up the volume for Spring/Summer 2027, digging into the visual language of rock ’n’ roll and bringing a harder, grungier attitude to Paris Fashion Week.
Under Glenn Martens, the house has continued to explore the tension between beauty and disruption, and SS27 pushed that relationship into a wardrobe that looked like it belonged somewhere between the dressing room and the stage. Leather, flared denim, pointed boots and deliberately imperfect styling established the collection’s tougher side, while softer fabrics and floral prints prevented it from becoming a straightforward exercise in rock-star dressing.
Leather became one of the collection’s defining materials. Appearing across jackets, trousers and outerwear, it brought weight and attitude to the runway, particularly when paired with denim and dramatically pointed footwear. There was something familiar about those references, but through Margiela’s lens they were distorted and exaggerated.
Against all that leather and denim came floral patterns across fluid silk shirts, introducing something lighter and more romantic. Their softness worked precisely because of what surrounded them. Florals that might otherwise have felt delicate suddenly became more rebellious when worn alongside leather, while the tougher pieces were softened by the introduction of silk and print.
Grungier silhouettes were interrupted by moments of elegance, with dresses sculpted around the body and necklines opened to expose skin. Fluidity appeared alongside structure, while pieces that initially seemed familiar were disrupted through unexpected proportions, construction and styling.
It is within those contradictions that Maison Margiela continues to feel most comfortable. The house has always questioned how clothing should be constructed, worn and understood, and Martens approached those ideas without allowing the collection to become consumed by its own experimentation. The references might have been recognisable, but their execution remained deliberately unconventional.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Maison Margiela found its rhythm somewhere between those two extremes. Leather met florals, elegance collided with imperfection and romance was given a much rougher edge.
