For Spring/Summer 2027, George Keburia arrived at London Fashion Week with his eyes fixed firmly on Britain, raiding everything from prep school uniforms and country pursuits to military dressing and sportswear.
From the opening looks, there was a sense that we’d entered some particularly unruly British institution. Rugby shirts were wrapped around waists, knee-high socks climbed towards tiny shorts, and sharply constructed jackets came with broad shoulders and exaggerated collars. Bags were deliberately left hanging open, while familiar preppy codes were pushed far enough out of place to stop them feeling nostalgic.
Horse and mallard imagery appeared across tapestry-like pieces, while washed canvas, camouflage and earthy khakis brought something more utilitarian into the collection. There were a slew of details that also stopped everything getting too serious: enormous pockets, excessive fringing, studded finishes, a pig insignia on belts and rhinestone saxophones and French horns. On paper, it sounds like a lot, but on the runway, the overload was kind of the point.
Keburia has spent years building a world around exaggerated silhouettes and an intentionally heightened version of femininity, but SS27 expanded that universe in an important way. This was the brand’s first time sending menswear down the runway. Keburia simply opened up the codes that were already there through structured tailoring, oversized silhouettes and decorative details that moved across genders without the collection suddenly feeling like two different ideas.
Masculine tailoring sat against tiny proportions, while country clothing met rhinestones. Utility fabrics were turned decorative and pieces that initially looked traditional became increasingly strange the longer you looked at them.
There are plenty of designers interested in British heritage right now, particularly as fashion continues digging through prep, uniforms and the country's endless archive of subcultures. Keburia approached it from a more entertaining position by treating those references as sacred.
SS27 was theatrical, eccentric and occasionally ridiculous, but knowingly so. Beneath all of that was some really strong tailoring and a clearer sense of where Keburia can go next, particularly now menswear has entered the equation.
