Jil Sander has built its reputation on control, but for Spring/Summer 2027, Simone Bellotti wanted to have fun, letting things flow a lot more loosely.
Showing his latest collection at Milan Fashion Week, Bellotti played with the house’s minimalist foundations without abandoning them. For example, tailoring remained sharp and considered, but there was something slightly off about it. Jackets closed high around the neck, seams cut unexpectedly across garments and trousers were stripped of the usual details that define the waist.
Structured jackets and elongated coats brought a sense of severity, while softer dresses expanded around the body in rounded, almost inflated shapes. Proportions shifted constantly, taking pieces that could have felt uniform-like and giving them a much more individual character.
The clothes weren’t overloaded with unnecessary ideas, but neither were they obsessed with being pristine. Details that might usually be hidden became visible, construction became part of the aesthetic and supposed imperfections were allowed to interrupt otherwise disciplined silhouettes.
Bellotti has spoken about questioning the pursuit of perfection, and SS27 made that idea tangible. The strongest looks weren't those that completely transformed Jil Sander's language, but those that nudged it slightly out of position.
It made for a collection that felt precise without being rigid and minimal without becoming sterile.
