Glenn Martens was never going to leave Diesel quietly.
For his final show as Creative Director, Martens brought the energy that has encapsulated his time at the Italian label to Milan Fashion Week one last time. Spring/Summer 2027 was loud, provocative and unapologetically Diesel, both on the runway and in the crowd.
Denim, naturally, remained at the heart of the collection, but this was never going to be about straightforward jeans. Martens continued to distort and manipulate the fabric through distressed finishes, unusual washes and exaggerated constructions. Denim was ripped, faded and transformed, while oversized jackets, barely-there pieces and unconventional layering pushed familiar Diesel codes somewhere much less predictable.
Skin was exposed, proportions were pushed and pieces appeared worn, weathered and deliberately imperfect. There was a sense of clothes being pulled apart and rebuilt, with Martens once again finding beauty in things that looked distressed or unfinished. It was sexy without feeling overly polished.
As models made their way through the space, the audience became part of the spectacle. Members of the crowd were kissing, while others were head-banging like they were watching a rock concert. It was sweaty, physical and chaotic, capturing the sense of freedom Martens has injected into Diesel over the past six years.
Instead of using his final collection to deliver a sentimental retrospective, Martens doubled down on what his Diesel has always represented: experimentation, sex, youth culture and a refusal to take fashion too seriously.
His tenure at Diesel has seen his shows become parties, spectacles and spaces where the audience is encouraged to get involved.
For one last time, Glenn Martens turned a Diesel runway into a party, and if Martens had to say goodbye to Diesel, this was the perfect way to do it.
