Fashion and music have always gone hand in hand for John Richmond.
Across a career spanning decades, the British designer has dressed some of music’s biggest names while bringing the attitude, rebellion and energy of rock ’n’ roll into his own collections. It’s a relationship that has never felt forced, either. As Richmond puts it himself: “I have always had empathy with musicians, and musicians have always been down to my designs, like minds down to each other.”
For Spring/Summer 2027, that connection once again took centre stage. Titled "White Light, White Heat" after The Velvet Underground track, Richmond’s latest collection explored the tension between light and darkness, structure and transparency, softness and control. Black and white formed its foundation, punctuated by flashes of Bowie blue and coral red, while lace, sheer panels, python-effect leather, sequins, crystals and reflective surfaces played with how light moved across the body.
Richmond brought young musicians onto the runway alongside the models, allowing their own style and attitude to become part of the presentation. Then, for the finale, Eurythmics co-founder Dave Stewart performed “White Light/White Heat” live as the cast returned to the runway, turning the closing moments into something closer to a gig than a conventional fashion-show finale.
Following the show, we caught up with Richmond to talk about "White Light, White Heat," his lifelong relationship with music, the musicians who have shaped his world and why, after all these years, he still refuses to separate fashion from sound.
CULTED: What was the starting point for “White Light, White Heat”?
John Richmond: I was thinking about black and white and layers of sheer fabrics. I’ve always loved the song and the title, and I’d always thought about using it in some way. It seemed like the perfect moniker from which to make a start.
Why did you want to explore light and darkness this season?
It was an exploration of layers and transparency. Dressing lately has been very minimal, with a lot of skin on show, and I wanted to find a classy way to explore that.
The collection mixes sharp tailoring with sheer fabrics and lace. What interested you about that contrast?
I was trying to use the lace in a more punky, cut-up and aggressive way, but still with a hint of romanticism.
Why did you keep the palette predominantly black and white?
I think growing up in Manchester, life was in black and white, with a lot of grey. I was “looking for the light through the pouring rain.”
Music has always been central to John Richmond. How did it influence this collection specifically?
I learnt about fashion through music. I was always drawn to the subcultures where fashion was intrinsic to the music: Northern Soul, glam rock, punk, goth, New Romantic and early New York rap. Genres of music where there was a dress code.
Those subcultures became my DNA and my vocabulary. I knew during the process of creating this collection that it was probably going to be electro-based. I had a playlist of Kraftwerk, Gina X and early ’80s Chicago and Detroit dance tracks.
Why did you want young musicians to walk alongside the models this season?
I’ve always had empathy with musicians, and musicians have always been down with my designs. Like minds are drawn to each other.
How did the collaboration with Dave Stewart come about?
My collaboration with Dave Stewart started in the early ’90s. We met and got on really well. I started doing clothes for him, then merchandise, album design and even directed videos. I was almost part of the band.
You’ve worked across fashion and music for decades. How has that relationship changed during your career?
When I started working with musicians, they would come to my shop in Soho and buy pieces, or I would make special pieces and variations of the collection for them.
George Michael came to my house because I was too busy to go to him. New Kids on the Block once showed up in a stretch limo that got stuck in the street. We had to close the shop to stop all the girls trying to get at them.
There are many more funny stories like that. Sadly, it doesn’t really work like that anymore.
After all these years, what makes something unmistakably John Richmond?
Attitude. And a great leather jacket.
