There was something noticeably freer about Fendi at Milan Fashion Week this season.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Maria Grazia Chiuri continued to put the body at the centre of the conversation. Skin was everywhere, but it wasn't the case of just showing more of it. Instead, clothes moved between concealing, revealing and framing the body, creating a wardrobe that felt sensual without becoming overly serious about sex.
Sheer dresses exposed lace bralettes underneath, shirts were left open across the chest and silk pieces moved loosely around the body. Elsewhere, baggy denim and relaxed tailoring brought everything back down to earth, stopping the collection from becoming too delicate or overly romantic. Fur, lace, embroidery and flashes of leopard print added texture, while black was broken up by softer hits of pink, yellow and turquoise.
There was a definite '70s spirit running through it all as Italian performer Raffaella Carrà was an important reference for Chiuri, whose provocative costumes and approach to dressing helped challenge expectations of how women could present themselves on Italian television. You could feel it in the confidence of the collection: visible underwear, plunging necklines, trailing dresses and clothes that seemed comfortable with being a little excessive.
Models moved inside a mirrored structure inspired by Italian artist Luciano Fabro's "Cubo di specchi," their bodies and clothes appearing through reflections alongside those of the audience. At times, you had to work to properly see what was coming down the runway.
Chokers and leather cuffs brought a harder edge to the softness elsewhere, while familiar Fendi bags returned in new forms, including a scaled-down Baguette designed to carry little more than a phone.
Most importantly, SS27 felt like Chiuri becoming increasingly comfortable at Fendi. The glamour is there for all to see, while the craft and the bags certainly aren't going anywhere.
