On this wet, crisp autumn morning here in Paris, we all gathered at Le Carreau du Temple for another Courrèges showdown (the brand showed here last year as well). The space was minimal, and from last season they made some renovations: a pool sat in the middle of the venue, with a stream of water flowing – all inspired by ocean drums. The first look, a black leather cocoon coat with no sleeves came out with just the eerie sound of ball bearings thrusting, making a water-esque flowing noise that brought an almost apocalyptic energy. Then came the music: a remix of the synthy “Born Slippy” by Underworld got everyone moving in their seats. And as the bass was making Anna Wintour’s bob vibrate, more cocoon-shaped coats followed up.
The collection was minimal, but far from boring. Creative Director Nicolas Di Felice continued with his monochromatic vision for another season bringing in a sea of black, white, grey and neutral looks. Overall, SS25 showed sleek, minimalist silhouettes with clean cut-out, subversive details, straight cuts and lines, sheer fabrics and thigh-high boot-sandal hybrids that looked like leggings under skirts. The collection also featured black bug-eyed oversized D-frame sunglasses – an updated take on the FW24 version, which were slightly smaller and less exaggerated.
Even with his minimalist, monochromatic tendencies Di Felice once again maintained the intergalactic heritage of the Courrèges house. André Courrèges was a pioneer in the Space Age wave of the ‘60s – google his 1964 Moon Girl collection – and maintained that retrofuturistic space-inspired aesthetic up until the end of his career. Di Felice has been very successful in delving into the archives and capturing the Space Age futuristic essence that made Courrèges the cult, heritage brand it is today – underwires in the hems and the cocoon coats screamed ‘60s – but bringing in his own personal touch, and reviving the brand to 2020s cool fashion, with sleeker, more minimal silhouettes and post-apocalyptic elements.
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