Collina Strada took the scenic route for Spring/Summer 2027, leaving the usual New York Fashion Week circuit behind for a runway surrounded by acres of open landscape.
Hillary Taymour presented the collection, titled “Detour,” at Storm King Art Center in New York’s Hudson Valley, becoming the first designer to stage an NYFW runway at the sprawling outdoor sculpture park. Models made their way across the grass between monumental artworks and rolling fields, turning the landscape into part of the presentation.
“Detour” is about moving away from the obvious route, following instinct and allowing clothes and identities to change along the way. Silhouettes twisted, draped and expanded around the body, with garments designed to constantly shift as opposed to sitting perfectly in place.
'A Knight’s Tale' provided one of the collection’s more unexpected reference points, but there was nothing costume-like about the result. Corsetry collided with cargo trousers, romantic ruffles appeared alongside tiny skirts and high-cut bottoms, and delicate layers of organza were disrupted by heavier, rougher fabrics.
Oversized draping created exaggerated volume around the lower body, while fitted corsets pulled things tightly back in. Floor-length gowns brought plenty of drama, but they were broken up by more functional separates and deconstructed utility pieces. Dusty rose, olive, cocoa, sky blue and patterned plaids kept the palette closely connected to the natural surroundings without losing Collina Strada’s usual sense of colour.
Deadstock fleece and organic cotton appeared alongside eco-acetate, silk, shantung and sheer organza, continuing the label’s long-running approach to more considered material sourcing. Recycled sequins added another layer of texture, appearing across pieces including the Pollen Legging and sweeping Chrysanthemum Dita Gown.
Elsewhere, the Nectar Jacket brought structure into the mix, while oversized Storm cargo silhouettes pushed familiar utility clothing into stranger territory. The layered Yuri Gown and lace-trimmed Sarah Gown leaned much further into the romantic side of the collection, creating a push and pull between softness and rebellion that ran throughout the show.
By taking fashion week out into Storm King’s landscape, Taymour built a collection around getting a little lost, changing direction and seeing what happens when you stop following the route you were given.
