Since launching his label in 2022, Charlie Constantinou has built a world around protection, adaptability and clothes that can change with the person wearing them.
What does this mean? Well, look at his collections and you see that puffers expand, panels shift, fabrics twist and they're manipulated. In short, everything looks ready for an environment a lot more demanding than the cosy venues of London Fashion Week.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Charlie Constantinou presented as part of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN programme. His new collection took the technical language he has spent the past few years developing and gave it more room to breathe. His familiar padded constructions, modular details and protective outerwear remained, but there was a noticeable looseness running through the collection.
Muted, earthy tones washed across lightweight separates and oversized layers, with fabric hanging and gathering around the body. Jackets remained functional, but their proportions became more relaxed and trousers pooled around the legs. Shorts were cut generously, while familiar pieces looked as though they had been pulled apart and rebuilt for a warmer climate.
His signature quilting was still present, appearing across outerwear and sculptural sections of garments, while asymmetric fastenings and adjustable elements continued the designer's fascination with clothing that can respond to its wearer.
There was something almost nomadic about the way pieces wrapped and hung from the body. Long coats arrived with rounded volume through the shoulders and sleeves, while lightweight tops extended beyond conventional proportions. Fabric also gathered at unexpected points, creating clothes that appeared somewhere between protective equipment and something organic.
I guess this is where Constantinou is at his best. His clothes often appear as though they've already been somewhere before reaching the runway through the dyeing, distressing and irregular surfaces.
This in mind, footwear pushed this idea even further. Heavy, protective shoes grounded the softer layers above them, maintaining the sense that however loose things became, these were still clothes designed with movement and utility in mind.
