There’s something strangely refreshing about watching Burberry stop trying to be perfect.
For Summer 2027, Daniel Lee loosened his grip on the British institution, allowing its familiar codes to become crumpled, colourful and occasionally a little strange. Staged inside the bright white surroundings of Chelsea College of Arts, the collection was packed with everything we've come to expect from Burberry, but with a lot more edge. For example, the check remained alongside Burberry's British sensibilities, but everything felt like it has been lived in.
The main focal point of this shift was Celia Birtwell. The legendary British textile designer, whose expressive prints helped define the visual identity of the late ’60s and ’70s, was invited into the Burberry universe to play with some of its most protected signatures. The House Check loosened into gingham and stripes, while wandering florals and illustrated faces interrupted the geometry.
Washed silk and cotton gave pieces the feeling of favourites pulled repeatedly from the wardrobe, while trenches were transformed through sheer fabrications, embroidery, exaggerated volume and unexpected proportions. Florals climbed across tailoring, colourful embellishments disrupted otherwise restrained pieces and trompe l’œil belts and epaulettes referenced Burberry’s outerwear history without simply reproducing it.
Trousers dropped lower, tailoring relaxed and denim entered the conversation alongside chains, hooded outerwear and floral shirting. It felt Lee looked outside and took in how young people in Britain are wearing their clothes.
Central Cee also made his first-ever runway appearance, and it made complete sense. He walked the runway with his hood up and jeans sitting extremely low (secured with a shoelace) with no attempt to transform himself into a the classic "Burberry Man." He looked liked Central Cee wearing Burberry, and I loved it. This feeling of individuality coursed through the whole presentation. The cast wasn't cleaned up into something clinically perfect, even the shoes appeared worn and marked in places.
However, there were still plenty of objects designed to remind you of the classiness behind the Burberry brand. The equestrian-inspired Derby was decorated with hand-finished florals, while the compact Sloane bag appeared in tactile woven leather.
David Bowie echoed through the space as models moved between unregimented wooden seating. And for Burbs, it was a fitting soundtrack. Bowie spent decades pulling British identity apart, after all, and there was something of that spirit here.
