What we loved outside of the obvious this fashion month

What we loved outside of the obvious this fashion month

by Ollie Cox
8 min

This month has seen Men’s Fashion Week take over European capitals. It was pretty major and saw Pharrell out and about in Paris, and Prada put on a typically solid display. If you didn’t know and don’t want to look silly in front of your stylish mates down the pub, or you’ve got a Hinge date lined up with a Maison Margiela-obsessed fashion fantastic, we’ve got an SS25 menswear cheatsheet to make your life easier. Keep reading for the bits you might’ve missed. 

Ten c
Ten c ©

Ten c stands for The Emporer’s New Clothes (you can have that one for free), and for Spring/Summer 2025, brand designer Alessandro Pungetti drew inspiration from uniforms and their functionality, which was seen in reinterpretations of the aviator flight suit. Given the brand is known for its spicy material innovations, this season we got water-repellent resin-coated linen and nylon-dyed garbadine with a metallic effect, which joined Ten c classics such as its OJJ fabric, playing into the merging of fashion and function the brand represents. 

Our Legacy 

People who are into Our Legacy are really into Our Legacy. And it keeps getting better and better each season. This time around, Creative Director Cristopher Nying drew inspiration from the sea-soaked appeal of a blazing fishing village for the brand’s “BLOOD KNOT” collection. This was seen in wet-look garments and pre-wrinkled tops that clung to the body as if put on in the moments that followed an afternoon dip. Nying’s references came from “pictures of boat engines photographed by my friend who had been with us for some time. They depict motors wrapped in mismatched fabrics, entangled in string. These images were the starting point for this season, inspiring much of the setting and colour palette. I think it portrays the close-knit community in a village like that, taking what you have for a utilitarian purpose, creating unexpected beauty.”

Magliano 

Magliano invited showgoers back into his industrial world, challenging the conventions and purposes of garments. Lace-up derbies with racer stripes? Yeah, we got that. Trackie bottoms and overcoats? That too. The collection brought together allergic ideas in an easy-on-the-eye collection of contrasts as function and dysfunction collided and sartorial codes were rewritten. Remember Magliano’s arse-out U-Power campaign? The work shoe-heavy collaboration was back in new colourways, perfect for any steel cap needs you may have. 

Kartik Research 

Kartik Research kicked off the Paris Fashion Week proceedings by honouring the grit and determination of Indian designers, whose self-belief and determination in an environment lacking in fashion infrastructure inspired the brand’s output. For SS25, brand founder Kartick Kumra worked with handwoven khadi fabrics, emphasising the human effort that goes into making these garments. The fabric itself is closely tied to the Indian independence movement and was used to reinstate a sense of national pride in the Gandhi independence movement. To complement a meaningful collection of loose-fitting tailoring and patchwork workwear pieces, including jackets and denim, Kartick Research worked with Converse, with the team travelling to Bagru Rajasthan to work with hand block printers to print onto the sneakers. An exceptional use of Indian textiles, embroidery, natural dyes, and a killer Converse collab made this a standout show.  

Burc Akyol

Burc Akyol’s SS25 collection was the fourth time he has presented on the Fashion Week schedule, but this time around it felt particularly significant. The show followed Akyol’s civil union with his long-term partner, a move that led him to question if he would now have to say goodbye to being himself. This tension was explored as couture-like draping was seen across silk dresses, yet confined with boxy tailoring. The collection showed how clothing can both be rigid, and free-flowing, in a representation of the tensions Akyol himself was feeling after his civil union.  

Feng Chen Wang 

Feng Chen Wang explored ancient artefacts in her Spring/Summer 2025 collection as she added ceramics into her material armoury. Muted tailoring in khaki and grey hues met with utilitarian bomber jackets as the designer weaved handcrafted materials into the elevated collection. And we mean elevated in every sense of the word – given select looks saw models wear sculpture-like shoe platforms which hugged a paint-cracked UGG Tasman slipper. 

Maison Mihara Yasuhiro 

Maison Mihara Yasuhiro brought karaoke to Paris Fashion Week for its Spring/Sumer 2025 collection, where surprise singers were dotted throughout the crowd belting out hits including Neil Diamond’s “Sweet Caroline,” and The Four Tops’ “I Can’t Help Myself.” Back on the runway, the label kept the spirits up, with ice cream cone and rubber duck kitten heels, adding to the fun. The brand’s typically oversized silhouettes, including MA-1 bombers and denim jackets, were crafted entirely from front panels, and it also debuted new “SCOTT” and “LARRY” sneaker models. 

Y-3 

Y-3 gave us its always-on-point fusion of adidas’ technical innovation with Yohji Yamamoto’s eye for masterful tailoring and directional cuts. Jackets with trailing threads leant on Yohji’s avant-garde aesthetic, and some Three Stripes sportiness was seen in a collaboration with the official pitch jersey of the Japan Football Association in blue flame “home” colourways and red flame “away” kits. As well as a Y-3 Regu sneaker being revealed (an astroturf adjacent design), the brand tapped some pretty massive people to walk the show, including skater Marcos Montoya, footballers Naomi Feller, Fuka Nagano and Joel Chima Fujita and artist Gabriel Moses.

sacai

On the last day of Paris Fashion Week, Chitose Abe served up sacai’s hybrid reinterpretations that go down a storm each season. This time around, we saw tailored jackets finished with billowing shoulders and cargo pockets applied to suits and skirts. The collection also gave way to a patchwork-esque fusion of colour seen across tops and bottoms and injected a bookish cool into the proceedings as models carried books under their arms. sacai is no stranger to a saucy collab, and its most recent collection saw the label link up with Levi’s for a series of denim looks, combining heritage and craftsmanship with a disruptive design approach that has won over cool kids for over 20 years.

Wooyoungmi 

For SS25, Wooyoungmi explored the cross-country relationship between Korea and the USA, or what is known as the ABK, the American-born Korean. This was seen in yuppie-style “I went to Harvard and will let everyone know” tailoring, as well as So-Cal-tinged knitted surfer beanies and knotted mixed-material trainers. A personal highlight for us: backpacks are back, at least on the Wooyoungmi runway. We’re all for practicality, especially after two weeks of Fashion shows. 

More on Culted 

See: Rick Owens recruited 200 students to join his army of love for SS25

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