C.P. Company is one of fashion’s most technologically advanced companies, and it all started with a p*ss-take.
Massimo Osti founded C.P. in 1971, combining the ‘C’ from Chester Barry and the ‘P’ from Fred Perry. After a lawsuit from both entities, the brand swiftly transitioned into the acronym we all know today. They first introduced garment-dyed clothing to the world in 1973. Previously, clothing was dyed before being sewn, knit, or transformed into a garment. Osti would dye his pieces as the final step, creating different depths, vibrancy, and quality.
Throughout the years, the brand’s military expertise has reigned supreme. The brand balances simple, ready-to-wear items for all with outlandish garments that take a lot to pull off. Below you will find a series of garments that you need to know if you want to get into the world of C.P. Company.
DUTCH POLICE SERIES AW 1982
If you were to put this jacket beside the genuine Dutch police jackets of the 1980s, the similarities would be uncanny. However, Osti took its robust design and added a few bits and bobs to make it his. The primary material on the coat is cotton which received the “Watro” treatment. Used on the inner side of the fabric, this treatment was the only reason why the material could withstand use on outerwear.
“MILLE MIGLIA” EDITION GOGGLE JACKET AW 1988
The year is 1988, and Osti is looking to make improvements on his ever-so-popular goggle jacket. The goggles are still found on garments today and are looked upon as one of the most recognizable details in the fashion realm.
On the brand’s archive section, they had this to say about the jacket: “This variant of the most iconic garment in C.P. Company history is made from a range of extremely high quality, raw coloured natural fabrics that are garment dyed in a light khaki colour with a “Fissato” treatment to accentuate the raw colour of the original fabric.”
SOLO VEST SS 2000
Helping to shape the brand as a technical operator, as opposed to a strictly militia-inspired house, was the solo vest from SS 2000. The multi-pocket vest is primarily dynafil. No, not the erectile dysfunction med. Dynafil is a highly tested and lowly applied material that is crucial in fast-spinning yarns. Attached to the back are heavy nylon webbed straps. The whole look is complete with a lining of double-layered fleece.
LOGO WOOL JACQUARD SWEATER AW 1987
Sticking to the retro items, we got the logo wool sweater from AW 1987. This piece gives off straight ugly Christmas sweater vibes with the graphic nous, partnered with the bold C.P. logo on the chest. However, this piece uses a subversive treatment to achieve astoundingly soft wool.
BUCKET HAT – PATTA COLLAB SS 2021
The Patta X C.P. collab took bucket hats to a new level. The all-around black exterior is broken up with a green patch. Both sections use C.P.’s revolutionary garment-dying techniques, introducing the technology to Patta’s designs. Completing the look is the archetypal goggle with a shared space for C.P. and Patta’s namesake.
TINTO TERRA 50 FILI PANTS AW 2007
C.P. produces some of the hardest cargo pants in the game. But in 2007, they shied away from their multi-pocket, technical fitting bottoms and went for something new. “The impetus for the development of the technique came from its then principal garment dyeing partner, Tintoria Emiliana, who presented the company with the possibility of dyeing with natural European, clay-derived, colours.”
What came of this process is a complex, yet subtle bottom which pulls from the brand’s workwear toolkit. They appeared thick and uncomfortable from the exterior but proved to be exuberantly comfortable and quite refined once worn.
C.P. X ADIDAS SPEZIAL SS 2021
The Adidas linkup in 2021 was something special. But, there was no better way to consummate the partnership than with a pair of Spezials. The pair came out in celebration of the brand’s 50th, drawing on the natural affinity between both brand’s audiences.
The all-white leather upper is partnered with a stunning green on the three stripes, tongue, achilles, and outsole. Its golden stamp of approval is found on the outer heel, marking history in the making.
More on CULTED
See also: THE BEST APPROACH IS HEAD-ON: THE MOST IMPORTANT INTRODUCTORY PIECES FROM STONE ISLAND