Fashion East Fall/Winter 2024 merged fun and function

Fashion East Fall/Winter 2024 merged fun and function

by Ollie Cox
4 min

Fashion East wowed on the first day of the London Fashion Week schedule, giving us club-ready uniforms, bringing sculptures to life through clothing, and merging the avant-garde with activewear in its Truman Brewery home. Initially launched in 2000, the non-profit designer support and showcasing scheme has been behind some of the biggest names in British fashion, including Kim Jones, Maximilian Davis, Martine Rose, Grace Wales Bonner, and so many more. 

This time around, Olly Shinder returned to the runway following his Spring/Summer 2024 debut, Johanna Parv was back for her Fashion East three-peat finale, and SOSSKYN by Samara Scott Studio brought her daily-life-driven artworks into the Truman Brewery. As expected from Lulu Kennedy and Raphaelle Moore’s tantalising talent incubator, Fall/Winter 2024 was a mega London Fashion Week moment. 

Johanna Parv
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Johanna Parv first joined Fashion East in January 2023, after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2020, before cutting her teeth at various high-end labels. 

Johanna Parv’s third and final collection for Fashion East kicked things off with a bang, hammering home her focus on feminine function for the city girl on the move. Opting for a muted palette of largely black, dark grey and green, practical carrying solutions were seen in harness-style and cross-body bags. Further storage came in the form of built-in zip pockets across the front of skirts and hybrid shoulder bag-meets-handbags styles, which were unclipped and repurposed as models walked the runway. 

This season, we saw shirts with cutouts to the shoulders and skirts finished with drawstring fastenings, ensuring functional features for life on the go. The London-based designer gave us a two-wheeled take on suiting, drawing inspiration from cycling jackets to inform a fresh take on sartorial codes, where collars were fixed and hemlines cut short. Throughout the collection, stilettos and Nike Air Max trainers collided, as did traditional form and function, a collection she summed up as “dark, sexy, [and] technical” after the show. 

Olly Shinder 
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Olly Shinder graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2022 and made his Fashion East debut for Spring/Summer 2024. Since then, he carved his path with quirky takes on a uniform and utilitarian dressing.

Out of the gate, to a ramped-up room-filling techno soundtrack, Olly Shinder paired military-style grey cargo shirts tucked into trousers with a sexy latex-looking collar. Loose-fitting latex punctuated the collection through skirts, gloves and jackets. The look was followed by a shirtless black iteration worn untucked with straight-fitting pleated trousers. As we saw this traditional workwear display march down the runway, Olly Shinder continued to carve his way into menswear, where the uniform was dismantled by escapism, seen in later latex-heavy looks.  

Progressing into the collection, Shinder’s shirted soldiers switched into lab technicians who wore white hooded jackets with cargo trousers, nodding to Shinder’s personal penchant for protective workwear. Latex gloves were half rolled down its wearer’s palms, which the London-based designer saw as a way to “set the story of this whole laboratory thing,” providing a “dip of colour” to monochrome and earth-toned looks. Also in the mix were sportswear staples, including grey hoodies, foil coats, sweatpants and sexy sniper-style camo.

SOSSKYN by Samara Scott Studio

When it comes to adjacent creative disciplines, fashion and art go together like beer and crisps, and this beautiful pairing is exactly what we got for Samara Scott’s Fashion East showcase. Each piece was handmade and developed by the artist and her team in Dover. While her work on the runway is lesser-known, Scott is an established artist known for her breathtaking installations, and her creative experimentation was welcomed on the catwalk. 

Unveiled as a presentation, we saw clothing turned into canvases, where dresses became wearable tapestries. Tops blended textured knitwear with patterned frayed fabric to offer further eye-catching contrasts, and semi-sheer dresses featured contrasting drawings in a range of hues from silver to blue. Accessories arrived in the form of crochet knitted bags, where a chrome handle provided contrast. We love an art on-the-runway moment, and this certainly did not disappoint. 

More on Culted 

See: Chet Lo levelled up in artistic mastery for Fall/Winter 2024

See: The Silhouettes Project: a mad musical manifesto

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