Charlie Constantinou brought wanderlust to Waterloo for Fall/Winter 2024

Charlie Constantinou brought wanderlust to Waterloo for Fall/Winter 2024

by Ollie Cox
3 min

Charlie Constantinou brought the outdoors to the city for Fall/Winter 2024, which saw the London designer debut his first ever runway show. Known for his considered, researched designs that focus on function, aesthetic qualities and practicality took equal priority. 

Constantinou graduated from Central Saint Martins MA Fashion Design Program in 2022. He was awarded the ITS Academy award for emerging designers and reached the semi-finals of the LVMH Prize. He has carved a name for himself with an organic approach to design inspired by mythical landscapes, and extreme weather. 

Taking place under the cavernous arches of waterloo, against the imposing backdrop of graffiti-filled walls and urban railway infrastructure, the magic of Constantinou’s multipurpose designs matched the setting perfectly. 

With the arches dimly lit with a faint lilac light, initial looks were crafted from a soft blue, with the space’s lighting combining with clothing to mirror a sunset-filled sky. Zippered detailing dominated technical skirts, layered cargo shorts, and trousers. Models wore shell-jackets in the same hue, with padded rucksacks which fastened with a polished silver buckle across its wearer’s chest. 

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As the collection progressed we saw a grey palette introduced to gilets, hoodies, skirts and trousers, with detached hoods worn as standalone headwear, aligning with Constantinou’s futuristic, gorp-leaning aesthetic. Jackets featured roomy pockets, and dual zip action across the chest, and models gave the front row some ASMR action as loose-fitting pants swooshed with each step. 

Deep purple was paired with lilac across cutout long-length knitted dresses, which were worn with trousers underneath. Later looks saw models slinging jackets under their arms as the collection introduced brown and green earth tones, nodding to the outdoor gear wearing city dweller who removes layers as they navigate the unpredictability of the metropolis.

For his debut runway show, the London-based designer teamed up Icelandic label 66° North for a second collaboration, adding a tried and tested 100-year heritage with his contemporary tech-focused design. A standout from this collaboration is the “Signature Quilt Jacket” which was introduced for Fall/Winter 2024, comprising bubble down compartments with a prolonged down process. 

Speaking after the show Constantinou shared how Iceland inspired his designs. “I’ve been going to Iceland for almost two years now while working with 66° North, and I’ve just been amazed [how] diverse their natural colour pallette is in terms of tones and textures. It reflects the colour palettes that we work with and the nature of our textiles. Those colours from nature in general [play a part in our colour palette].”

When it came to accessories, London-based jewellery designer OCTI designed bespoke pieces taking inspiration from the natural world, including shells, collected cast into silver, and footwear was covered by DEMON, with each look matched with a tonal hand-dyed “Poyana” shoe. 

Charlie Constantinou’s Fall/Winter 2024 invited showgoers into an escapist colour-soaked fantasy, where the boundaries of exploration were broken down by functional fabrications and aspirational colour palettes. Hat’s off on your runway debut Charlie!

Pre-orders for the Charlie Constantinou x 66° North collection can be made here.

More on Culted 

See: Sinead Gorey AW24 was an ode to school uniforms, drinking in parks, & lunchtime detentions

See: For FW24 Saul Nash said “I’m inviting you to the club”

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