Has Blumarine lost the plot for FW24?

Has Blumarine lost the plot for FW24?

by Juliette Eleuterio
3 min

Blumarine has entered a new era, thanks to the appointment of its new Creative Director, Walter Chiapponi, but the brand’s cult internet following seems… disappointed, to say the least. 

Chiapponi, previously Creative Director at Tod’s, made a U-turn from the vision laid out by his predecessor, Nicola Brognano. Under Brognano’s helm, Blumarine was transformed into a hyper-youthful, sexy bling bling mammoth of Fashion Week, one that was drooled over by all High Fashion Twitter users and industry people alike. Brognano’s aesthetic was highly embedded in the Y2K phenomenon, embracing mini skirts, low-waisted silhouettes, and bedazzling the brand’s butterfly logo.

Alas, as all trends do, the Y2K obsession fizzled out, and Brognano’s time at Blumarine came to an end. His final two collections, Fall/Winter 2023 and Spring/Summer 2024, were the result of that very trend dying off: a confused attempt to pivot away from the worn-out visuals that made the brand so beloved in the first place. 

For his debut showing, Chiapponi stayed as far away as he could from the cult Y2K aesthetic. Instead, he opted for a more reserved and pared-back offering consisting of leopard prints, 3D floral details, denim pieces, lace-trimmed below-the-knee dresses, and finally, a silk floral-printed pyjama set to close off the show. Immediately, the softer, pastel colour palette that Brognano loved was replaced by vibrant yellows, stale greens, and primary blues, and the sex appeal attached to Blumarine’s brand in the last couple of years faded away, with a couple of exceptions. 

While the visual impact of Chiapponi is nowhere near the heyday of his predecessor, he actually took the brand back to its roots. In the past, the brand has always favoured soft, feminine and romantic clothing. In fact, co-founder Anna Molinari was known for her inclusion of rosettes on subdued clothing, which became widely popular throughout Italy, even after her own. 

Looking back at the brand’s history, its recent popularity, thanks to the youthful, risqué, and trendy efforts of Brognano, feels more like a blip in Bluemarine’s timeline, if anything. 

That’s not to say all of Chiapponi’s offering was disapproved of. One look in particular positively stood out amongst showgoers and internet scourers: a lace pale pink co-ord made up of a fur ball-trimmed cardigan and below-the-knee skirt.

After all, it is still his debut collection. There still seems to be some potential to tie in Blumarine’s DNA with a more updated and exciting offering we’ve seen in the previous season. Bring on your next move, Chiapponi.

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