As much as fashion week loves a buzzy, breakout collection and brand, there’s also a lot to be said for the brands consistently producing great collections. One of them, we’d argue, is AV VATTEV, who has built up a reputation as one of London Fashion Week’s most integral and exciting showings.
The Bulgarian-born Londoner has also become known for his signature tailoring – diamond diagonals that reflect his initials, AV, and of course the brand name. However, the genius in creating a unique, recognisable cut is that you wouldn’t even have to know the brand name: AV VATTEV operates in visual languages just as well.
Known for the distinctive silhouettes and design motifs, creative director Antonio Vattev has steered the brand in a focused, futuristic direction, which his recent showing at London Fashion Week exemplified. His signature flair – boxy silhouettes, twisted detailing and lots of leather – all made an appearance, alongside graphic prints and jewelled closure detailing.
Titled Soul Control Vol.2, this season was AV VATTEV amped up: the designer looked back to previous pieces and reworked them for this presentation. Ribbed knits took deconstruction to a new level, whilst also referencing his own laser cut patterns from previous forays. What was once an asymmetric coat, now became blazers – it was a look at the past without feeling overly repetitive.
Crushed velvet shirts, tank tops and jackets sat alongside printed and patterned two pieces – giving a hint of Y2K, but in a fresh silhouette. Elsewhere, blue faux fur trimmed aviator jackets, and exposed pockets became a central visual reference hanging under hemlines.
And, in case you missed it, hoods are in this season in London. Richard Quinn did it with his series of ‘protective hoods’, and Antonio Vattev did it with his extended, sculptural balaclavas. From textured blue to leather red and even a bally made up from intricately webbed (and dyed) hair, AV VATTEV said face coverings are here to stay – despite any contradictory government advice.
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