Fashion Month has been forced to evolve over the past year, with limitations and restrictions being put in to no end. Big scale film productions replaced the front row and the shows were more accessible than ever thanks to online streaming. Most brands chose a virtual show, demonstrating cinematic inspiration and elevated creative directions. Loewe ‘cancelled’ their show for clout and gender norms were kicked to the curb, like when women walked the Burberry runway in menswear. Several designers served us statement print shirts, Bermuda shorts dominated the runway and 1970’s inspiration was seen across the board. We scanned the runways of New York, London, Milan and Paris to bring you our favourite highlights from the past two Fashion Months.
PRADA’S VIRAL GLOVES
Prada gave us pandemic-inspired accessories, showing menswear gloves in vibrant colourways of blue, white, red and purple. The gloves included the addition of a ‘hands-free’ zip purse, fusing innovation with functionality. The Prada logo was featured heavily, with the eponymous triangle being stitched onto the backs of garments, knitted into pieces and shaved into furs.
EMBLEMS OF AHLUWALIA
For London Fashion Week, Ahluwalia presented a short film titled ‘Traces’. The collection featured the brand’s new signature emblem; a compass facing the four corners of the world. The emblem was placed at the centre of jackets, shirts and our favourite item, the sneakers. The shoes also feature the outline of Africa printed around the base, in either blue or green colourways. Using sustainably sourced materials, Ahluwalia blurs the lines between streetwear and high-fashion.
Y/PROJECT’S DENIM DETAILS
Y/Project offered up a selection of earthy tones in its co-ed show. A continuous theme of creased ready to wear and accessories were seen throughout, using leather and lace materials. A highlight among the collection was the embroidered denim, reminiscent of the wild west.
1000 HOURS OF CELINE
Hedi Slimane’s collection perfectly blended formal and casual wear whilst demonstrating intricate craftsmanship. The collection used elements of punk and focused on a new youthful representation for the brand. Celine’s fashion week film showcased a jacket that was made by over 23 different embroiderers, requiring over a thousand hours to create.
MARINE SERRE DOES DENIM WELL
Marine Serre was among the many designers focusing on print this season. As guests tuned in to marineserrecore.com to watch the show, we saw suiting redefined. Cropped denim jackets were paired with jeans, adding neck scarves as a finishing touch throughout. “Core” was an expression of the essence of Marine Serre as a brand, making many of Serre’s pieces easily placed in any wardrobe.
RICK OWENS’ ‘GETHESMANE’
Rick Owens envisioned a post-pandemic world with face masks styled to almost every look. Deconstructed puffer jackets and utility vests were the main focus of the designer, providing variety in silhouettes. A highlight amongst many was Owen’s take on the classic fleece jacket which comes in white shearling and has a hybrid sleeve/gloves and a complete-zip-up feature (protection from anything and everything). The collection was presented as a fusion of elaborate pieces designed with comfort in mind.
ONE OF THESE DAYS THESE GMBH BOOTS ARE GONNA WALK ALL OVER YOU
For FW21 GmbH lead with elevated tailoring, as they sent their couture-like designs down the runway. They displayed their signature overlapping shoulder wrap cuts in leather, fur and wool. Black leather and snakeskin calf boots were a regular appearance with each look, styled under tapered trousers or over the top. The boot features a silver zip that bends around the design to elevate the look from the front and back.
LOUIS VUITTON’S HARLEM RENAISSANCE VIBE
Louis Vuitton had several standout items, mainly the combination of hats and durags shown throughout the collection. These were elevated by the use of different colours and prints. Amongst the entourage of looks was a transparent vinyl-embossed suit in the signature LV monogram. The silver trunk/briefcase was reserved for the final look; Abloh and Ib Kamara certainly saved the best for last.
BUBERRY IS BACK
Riccardo Tisci went all out this season after the criticism received on his previous Burberry collection. Statement print shirts, futuristic trench coats and lightweight kilts were featured. The American-inspired varsity jacket showed an element of Tisci’s early 2010s stint at Givenchy and was designed both with and without sleeves.
BIANCA SAUNDERS’ “SUPER IMPOSED” DENIM
Bianca Saunders took this year’s digital fashion week to new heights. The British designer, in collaboration with Wrangler, superimposed images of creased denim on denim, creating a surreal illusion. Known for her experimental garments, Saunders re-imagines the rough Texas cowboy look throughout her collections.
A NEW VERSACE IS IN TOWN
Versace’s collection was pattern and print orientated as it launched its new monogram for 2021. Bandanas were a core part of the collection and were often paired with a garment of the same print. This collection proves loafers are set to be a key trend of Fall 2021; Versace featured a bold patent black version, with the houses’ logo-embossed sole.
BLUMARINE’S 2000S BLING
Blumarine was an ode to 2000s bling. A printed blue two-piece appeared early in the show, with a hugging silhouette and fur lapel finishing. The use of nostalgic prints and neon colours continued throughout. One of our most loved pieces from the brand was the yellow exaggerated-lapel fur jacket.
GIVENCHY GIVES A NOD TO MCQUEEN
Matthew Williams delivered yet another statement-filled show, after joining Givenchy less than a year ago. He paid homage to McQueen, with a futuristic red shoe, symbolic of the ‘Armadillo’ design. Accents of reds were seen towards the end of the co-ed show, while he focused on accentuating the body through tailored and fitted looks.
DIOR’S MILITARY MIGHT
The Parisian fashion house showcased collared military jackets in an array of colours, matching them with tapered trousers and our stand out from the show; the calf-high leather and rubber snow boots. Yoon Ahn, men’s jewellery designer at Dior, drew on inspiration from regality with Kim Jones to create brooches, rings, necklaces and earrings, many of which feature a silver lion, a symbol of military might.
SACAI X KAWS X NIKE
sacai joined forces with KAWS for its FW21 collection. The brand new sacai X KAWS Nike Blazer Low was seen in two colourways, including a predominantly red and orange model and a blue model. The sneakers feature sacai’s stacked Swoosh as well as KAWS’ signature XX mark, making it our standout sneaker from the fall collections.
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See also: GIVENCHY F21 BY MATTHEW WILLIAMS: A ‘SENSE OF LIVED REALITY’
See also: RICK OWENS’ FW21 WOMEN’S SHOW PLAYS WITH CATHOLIC CULTURE
