Just like that, the first leg of RTW Fashion Week for FW23 taking place in New York has come to a close. With only one day to recuperate before the commencement of the London edition, we have gathered some of our favourite moments from NYFW. From Thom Browne’s shipwrecked story to Rodarte going full Wednesday Addams mode on us, keep reading to get all caught up on the shows.
(ANIMAL) HEADS WILL TURN AT COLLINA STRADA
Hillary Taymour, founder of Collina Strada, has always found inspiration in the natural world. This season though, the designer took it a step further by enlisting makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench to create a series of animalistic prosthetics. From dolphins to reptiles, models were transformed into animals, a theme which transpired into the clothing which offered a dog-printed top with overstated shoulders and a fur-printed strapless denim dress among other sportswear-inspired pieces.
LAQUAN SMITH TURNED SEXY INTO A SERIOUS AFFAIR
Who said you can’t be professional and show a little skin? Laquan Smith’s FW23 showing was filled with structured blazers paired with sheer or cut-out dresses. Since this was a business casual affair, handbags were replaced by briefcases. Other standout pieces include velvet dresses and dominatrix-inspired latex mini dress paired with its matching long coat.
THE WHITE LOTUS ACTOR CRASHED ECKHAUS LATTA
Queue that bizarre mix of harp-led beats and chaotic yodels we have all gotten to know and love as The White Lotus’ soundtrack, as Jon Gries made a special appearance wearing a a yellow and green-toned mohair sweater paired with baggy white trousers for Eckhaus Latta. Elsewhere we saw a toned-out colour palette, as blacks, whites, and neutral tones were seen on cut-out dresses, tops, trousers and coats.
PROENZA SCHOULER GOT PERSONAL
Actor and fashion icon Chloë Sevigny did the honours of opening Proenza Schouler’s FW23 show. For this retrospective collection, the designer served us a range of must-have basics, ranging from tailored suits to leather dresses. Highlight pieces include a powerful oversized white suit jacket paired with a white midi skirt and slouchy leather boots, and a yellow-furred long coat tied off with a thin black belt at the waist.
RODARTE’S FAVOURITE DAY OF THE WEEK? WEDNESDAY
With gothic fairies and Morticia lookalikes storming the runway, Rodarte’s FW23 direction was clear: gothcore. Models were almost all dressed in black with a striking eye makeup à la Julia Fox, exploring the thin line between beauty and horror. An array of top-fitted black dresses with bell sleeves that trailed along the floor were sent down the runway, as well floral-lace decorated gowns and their overcoats, an element of the show which was further delved into towards the end, with various iterations of flowy floral-print dresses.
SHAPES IN VOLUME AT THOM BROWNE
Thom Browne has carved himself quite a reputation for being a designer who is unafraid of stepping outside the conventional lines of fashion, a fact that was restated this season. Exploring the themes of loneliness and loss, oversizing was a key element to this collection, with boxy suit jackets and puffy sleeves, as well as intentional mismatching, as if a shipwreck survivor was making their clothing using only the available scraps of materials left after the crash.
More on CULTED