Being the 35th anniversary of the brand, Jun Takahashi and Undercover decided to commemorate this special milestone by reminiscing and reimagining his favourite collection to date: FW04-05 titled “But Beautiful… Part Parasitic Part Stuffed.”
Set in what looked like an old-school theatre stage with a lonesome spotlight, the models would stumble into the light with confusion - because there was no clear walkway. The music was ethereal and kind of emotional too, really creating a reminiscing moment for the designer.
A collection centred around the plush creations of Anne-Valerie Dupond and the personal style of Patti Smith (a recurring inspiration for Jun Takahashi), the designer tried to picture what Smith would wear if the clothes were reminiscent of handcrafted plushies. It’s been 20 years since the original collection Takahashi is referencing here and it’s clear that, although the collections have similarities, it clearly shows his evolution as a designer and the passage of time, for better or worse.
The rawness and the imperfect elements of the FW04-05 collection (and Undercover in general) are definitely prominent motifs this time around, with raw edges and distressed details scattered throughout the collection along with embellishments and playful pins plastered over the garments for a touch of punk. Where this collection differs from its predecessor is the abundance of vibrant colours that can be found in this show, especially with the Champion collaboration that gives off a casual, effortless vibe. The tail end of the collection also sees Takahashi dabble heavier into eveningwear which he teased with the standout first look, through a mixture of suits and dresses that are both elegant and dramatic - Takahashi’s forte for sure.
It’s a collection that clearly shows how his various inspirations over the last 20 years have refined his unique perspective, giving him an undeniable versatility that only a few contemporary designers have really mastered. There’s no doubt that Jun Takahashi is a veteran of the game.
Featured images via Getty©
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