Why Schiaparelli keeps winning Fashion Week

Why Schiaparelli keeps winning Fashion Week

by Robyn Pullen
4 min

From its star-studded FROW to its surreal collections, Schiaparelli is the unofficial GOAT of Haute Couture Week. It’s the event in our fashion calendars that we know will always be worth watching, inviting guests who attend in full couture to preview collections featuring faux lion heads, robot babies, and sculptural designs worthy of a spot in a museum. Here’s how Schiaparelli earnt and keeps its winning streak at fashion month.

Schiaparelli is more than clothing: it’s art

Titled ‘The Phoenix’, Schiaparelli’s Fall 2024 Haute Couture show on Monday was an archive-inspired ode to Elsa Schiaparelli’s works in the 1950s, pulling on the sculptured silhouettes of the time period as well as some of her iconic motifs, from ruffled feathers to unlocked keyholes. As usual, it was like watching a presentation of artworks rather than pieces of clothing.

According to Daniel Roseberry, the mastermind behind Schiaparelli’s current collections as Creative Director to the House, his Fall 2024 Haute Couture collection was inspired by his vision of a “forgotten collection” buried in the basement of Elsa Schiaparelli’s home. As Roseberry said of the collection in his show notes: “people don’t buy Schiaparelli, they collect it.” And he’s right, because you collect art.

It puts on the runway and on the FROW 

Every season, we come to Schiaparelli’s shows for the fashion, and stay to watch the celebrities sitting on its FROW. From Doja Cat’s demonic diamonté look that involved the painstaking application of 30,000 Swarovski crystals to Kylie Jenner’s black gown adorned with a life-sized faux lion’s head, guests treat the front row at Schiaparelli like a runway itself. 

This Monday, Schiaparelli opened Paris’ Haute Couture Week and invited its regular guest list to the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild for its Fall 2024 Haute Couture show. This time, Kylie arrived in a custom corset dress in embroidered pale pink mesh, and Doja Cat wore a jacket crafted from hundreds of hand-cut, velvet rose petals lined with crystals. Basically, getting invited to a Schiaparelli show means wearing an outfit that could compete with the runway.

Daniel Rosebery’s respect of the archives

The modern features of Daniel Roseberry’s collections – like the robotic, diamonté babies we saw at Schiaparelli’s haute couture show in January or the lobsters on dresses and jewellery that appeared at the season before – make it easy to forget how grounded Roseberry is by Elsa Schiaparelli’s original designs. But that’s partly because of how ahead of her time Elsa Schiaparelli really was.

At Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry has taken a ton of inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli’s design portfolio, seen in the measuring tape and surreal body parts in his recent collections. Even the opening look from his Fall 2024 Haute Couture show, a silver, feathered shrug wrapped around the model’s body, was a direct reference to Elsa Schiaparelli’s feathered silhouettes from the 1940s, and archival shoes on the runway were inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s designs in 1938.

Featured image via Schiaparelli©

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