After giving us a collection full of rigid suits and high leather boots, Saint Laurent gave us something a little more relaxed and zen for Summer 26.
That calmness you might feel comes from the installation by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot that was the centrepiece of the runway this season. It’s a circular basin filled with water where porcelain bowls would drift and move across the makeshift pond, creating soothing sounds and invisible lines across the water as they clash and move without choreography.
The colour palette carries on over from the FW25 womenswear collection in a more neutral way, giving us ‘70s vibes in quiet shades of what they described as dry moss, pool blue and pale ochre. It’s a bold statement that’s not doing too much, taking the spotlight in a way that feels natural and lowkey.
Even with the brighter hues, it doesn’t distract us from Vaccarello’s signature extended shoulders and seamless cuts that make something as powerful and stiff as a suit seem laid back and breezy with silks and nylons. It was so casual that ties were tucked inside the button up shirts, like you were about to cook a meal at home after a long day in the office. Waistbands on trousers were cinched and messily scrunched with a tonal belt, as if you bought any size off the rack and needed to make it work. Shorts were shorter than usual and glasses were bulbous and oversized, carrying on that ‘70s agenda that now seems so nostalgic to us (even though most of us never lived through it).
There was an intentional nonchalant attitude about this season, it was calculated calmness with careful colour coordination and a chill undertone that made the collection seem so effortless. We’re definitely rocking with this new chapter of Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent.
All featured images via Getty©
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