All eyes were on Gucci this season with the debut of Sabato De Sarno as creative director, following the highly acclaimed FW23 show created by the in-house design team. For Sabato’s Milan Fashion Week debut, we saw a new direction for the Italian house, which looked to the future with an eye on the past. Titled “Ancora,” which is Italian for “also” or “also again,” the Gucci SS24 collection featured over 50 looks, some of which we’ve dissected for you.
The opening look to this collection felt very Gucci. It consisted of a charcoal grey shin-length overcoat with upward-pointed lapels, a simple white top with a low-bearing rounded neckline and little black shorts held by a skinny belt with a golden interlocked double GG buckle. The look was finished off with minimal accessories, in quantity but not in impact. We saw an elongated iteration of the Jackie bag in a red nappa leather with the classic Italian red and green colours on the shoulder strap and platform chunky loafers with the house horsebit silver buckle.
This look took a fun approach to the little black dress. The loose-fitting patented, glossy dress hung on the model almost like a Polly Pocket piece of clothing, with a plunging, rounded neckline. It also featured the classic monogram embossed throughout. The whole look was accessorised with simple black pointed heels with a thin strap wrapping at the ankle, a golden touch on the wrist and a white handbag slung over the model’s shoulder.
Gucci took a more relaxed turn by look 14 and 15, with the integration of grey sweaters. While number 14 featured a jaw string hoodie, this one had a high-neck zip-up with oversized sleeves that scrunched up at the wrists. It was paired with a skirt in the signature De Sarno’s Gucci red we’ve seen throughout the collection and on various activations led by the brand, that also featured a front slit creating an asymmetrical effect. This skirt was seen throughout the collection in a variety of colours, becoming a frontrunner of the show.
We see the same skirt as the previous look, though in a different, plain material and in a navy colour. The model wore a mini black Diana bag with its recognizable bamboo handle but what stole the show here: a collared black leather jacket with straight-cut hems, two side pockets with visible zippers while the left side of the jacket also had a zipped pocket on the breast area and a button-pocket by the stomach.
The platform loafers make a comeback in this flashy look that featured a co-ord short and suit jacket in a highlighter green colour. Though in a slightly different shade, the flashy green continued on the Jackie-remodelled bag in a snakeskin pattern, making this one of the stand out looks from the Gucci SS24 collection, at least visually.
Again, we see the front slit-skirt, here in a glossy sky blue shade though monogramless. It was paired with a knitted jumper that featured baggy sleeves fitted at the wrists. The interesting feature here was the bow tied-style strips of knit that hung down to the waistline, exposing the area between the collarbone and the armpit. This feature was carried on throughout the collection, adding a twist to classic knits, blouses and shirts.
Look 27 offered yet another casual take on the Gucci-verse, because even Gucci customers need their downtime out of suits and decked-out dresses. This is the type of look you’d expect from a downtown New York girlie, with navy high-neck Gucci-marked zip up. This was paired with relaxed fit, slouchy jeans that trailed along the floor, with only the pointed red toe box of a pair of heels peeking out.
Here we saw an experimental play on colour, as a deep red Nappa leather blazer was paired with muted cream iridescent shorts. Square-framed sunglasses were finished in the same hue to offer further coordination, working with a Jackie bag, further pulling the look together. Crocodile leather lime-green heels provided a playful pop of contrast, channelling the standout spirit of the Gucci brand.
Look 39 eschewed an effortless cool to the collection, as we saw a white open-backed top, with a high neckline, accented with black textured detailing, which was actually a reinterpretation of a SS91 top created during Tom Ford-era Gucci. It was paired with relaxed fit, oversized and forever classic jeans, which ebbed and flowed over oxblood stiletto. The outfit was complemented by a thin leather belt, and sunglasses to match. A textured black handbag was worn over the shoulder to complete the look.
For this look, chunky black knit detailing revealed a striking orange layer underneath. It combined smooth, satin-like materials with chunky, abrasive detailing underneath. Cut short, the look was paired with a handbag crafted from the same layering technique, which was worn tight to the body. On foot, Gucci’s classic 1953 horsebit received a playful makeover, as it was placed atop of a wedge sole, and finished in a red leather hue.
Here we saw the movement from day to night, as lingerie-style lace nightwear was incorporated into the bust and midriff, with leather used to complete the dress, which was cut above the knee. Paired with classic horsebit loafers, the gold detailing was continued throughout the look, which was accented with Gucci’s Marina Chain, a chunky, which clung to models’ collarbones with anchor-like chain links.
The closing look to the Gucci SS24 Womenswear collection consisted of a muted black overcoat, maintaining the 60s chic seen throughout the show, paired with a dainty leather handbag complete with gold hardware. Silver tassels detailed leather heels to complete the look.
Written in collaboration with Ollie Cox.
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