Riccardo Tisci has further cemented and sealed his reign at the helm of Burberry with his FW21 Womenswear show. The presentation titled “Feminity”, hosted live at the brand’s Regent Street flagship store and streamed online was an “instinctual” ode to feminine power and the essence of women. Opening with palpable poetic words by performer Shygirl – depicting the sacred and honourable elements of womanhood from the gaze of an admirer – the pieces and models followed, continuing on in the same strides of strength and sexiness.
Without a doubt, this collection acted as a clear reminder as to why Riccardo was appointed in the first place. The Italian maverick continues to push the envelope; reinterpreting the quintessential Burberry Brit style in a way that a newer – and more globally connected – generation understands. All the looks were still shrouded in traditional subtleties. With a nod to British elegance, Tisci kept to the demure and luxe palette of creams, blacks and browns – synonymous with Burberry’s aesthetic. Traditional tailoring was overhauled by 3D-esque cuts and finishes. He took it a step further by referencing British royalty, with what looks like new versions of historically royal gable hoods. Shawled dresses and jacket designs – almost geometric in their colours and patterning – flowed off the models in the same way a flag or sail would. If that symbol wasn’t clear enough, you’ll notice the Union Jack incorporated into a skirt and also forming the silhouette of a cutout bandage top.
Then there were the statement pieces. A number of shimmery metallic and chainmail gold evening dresses, jackets and tops were on show. They all worked to encapsulate this idea of a female warrior in a modern take on battalion armoury. Take your mind back to last month’s Grammy after-party, where Tisci hinted at this concept with Beyonce’s skin-tight custom dress and face covering.
What’s a Riccardo Tisci show without its animalistic feel and inspirations from nature? Take this season’s option of brown or white heavy fur coats with tail-like fringes. Not forgetting a woodland-inspired jacket with a peel-like opening, variations of which were best worn by Erykah Badu and Naomi Campbell for the collection’s social media campaign. After seeing it on them, you’ll have no trouble finding a favourite piece.
Tisci made the right choice to rely heavily on his instinct and design DNA for this collection. See for yourself – Discover the AW21 looks and rewatch the show here.