Every time we think we know what to expect from Miuccia and Raf, they switch things up and deliver something new, unexpected, and refreshing. That’s exactly what happened at Prada’s SS26 Men’s show today, titled “A Change of Tone.” In thirty degree heat, we pulled up to the Fondazione Prada’s Deposito in Milan, with the likes of Harris Dickinson, Stormzy, and Win Metawin, to experience Prada’s take on what the world needs right now. And, according to the legendary creative duo behind the brand, we could all do with “a shift of attitude.”
Stepping into Prada’s SS26 show space, we found that it had been transformed since last season, signalling a new and updated era for the brand – one that, in the words of Prada’s IG, is set in “lover’s lake, peak’s end, the last swim. Imaginary places.” In stark contrast to the low ceilings and even lower lights of FW25, we were met with a vast, brightly lit concrete room, decked with various floral carpets that we later found out were inspired by the flower-shaped appliques that people used to use to add grip to their bath tubs in the ‘70s.
This level of attention to detail, even down to the vintage references that Miuccia and Raf look to for their show’s interior design, is a reminder that nothing at Prada is accidental or surface level. You thought that was a carpet? No, it's a vintage bath sticker inspired art installation. We’ve said it before, and we’ll say it again – Prada gets that fashion is more than what you wear; it’s the world you create. And the collection itself also built on this world even further, pushing Prada’s narrative of new perspectives and tonal shifts for SS26. Let’s get into it.
Prada’s summer wardrobe is short shorts and flip-flops
Prada was gearing up for hotter days on its SS26 runway, with fits ready for a pending heatwave. The look that opened the show was a laid back shirt boasting a sun and wave motif, paired with the shortest shorts in the game. With cargo pockets adorned on the front, these bottoms put the famously short shorts we saw at Prada’s S/S 2019 Men’s show to shame, raising the hem more than a couple inches up the thigh. They were paired with another summer essential: flip-flops in bright hues, like Prada’s now iconic shades of mustard yellow and olive green.
Scuba suits were worn under tailored jackets
Staying on theme, Prada’s opening looks revealed a variety of tailored suits in muted shades, worn over bright scuba suits. The juxtaposition between workwear and swimwear perfectly encapsulates the endless dilemma of every Prada loving man: how do I dress for the beach without sacrificing drip? The answer: zip up your scuba fit and pull your sharply tailored suit courtesy of Raf himself over the top.
‘70s style geometric florals that feel very Miuccia
We’ve seen many a floral print from Prada – Miuccia Prada famously loves to reference the patterns and silhouettes of the ‘70s, when florals were at home on practically every fit – and SS26 brought a more geometric floral motif to the runway than recent seasons. As seen on loosely fitted shirts, and the carpets that covered the show space floor, florals were in for Spring at Prada SS26, and we’re not complaining.
Straw hats look windswept af
Headwear is always a main character on Prada’s runways – remember the swim caps from FW24 Men’s or the horse riding style hats at FW24 Women’s – and this season was no different. Woven straw hats were the final touch on Miuccia and Raf’s nautical, summer theme, adding an element of whimsy to the collection. In particular, the bright and optimistic colour palette of the hats, combined with their windswept look created through loose weaving and strands of leather frozen in animation, added to their carefree, easygoing quality.
Love a good shrunken tee, but even better knitted
A detail we’re still thinking about was the addition of loose, white threads on the neckline of a shrunken knitted sweater, that acted as a reminder that, at Prada, nothing is accidental. As we saw on scuffed boots at Prada FW25 too, Miuccia and Raf really commit to their pre-worn, hand-me-down aesthetic by adding details reminiscent of wear and tear to brand new pieces. While Prada might be changing the tone this season, its love of well-loved, vintage looking garments will never die, and neither will ours ngl.
Military references remind me of Raf Simons’ F/W 2001
In contrast to Miuccia Prada’s vintage florals, you can see what looks like a nod to Raf Simons’ iconic F/W 2001 show, which debuted his grailed camo military jacket, in a khaki, knitted sweater with shoulder patches and straps that contrast with its fringed hem. The bold, directness of this look contrasted with the relaxed attitude of the rest of the collection in a way that had us thinking about it long after we’d left our seats. It has to be a Raf special.
Elevated footwear with a gorp-core edge
High-class footwear styles like loafers and brogues were given a gorp-core edge with the addition of bubble soles, reminiscent of the style seen on Miu Miu’s grailed F/W 1999 heels, which elevated fits that otherwise felt easygoing and relaxed. In contrast, tailored jackets and trousers were juxtaposed with ultra-casual flip-flops that looped around the toe. And another thing about Miuccia and Raf: they're big fans of socks and sandals.
Featured image via Prada©
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