After Dries Van Noten himself stepped down from his eponymous label back in March last year, we’ve all been eagerly waiting for what Julian Klausner’s got in store for his debut, and after a year, it’s finally here. It’s safe to say that he delivered, too, with an impressive collection that reimagines Van Noten’s signature floral patterns and avant-garde opulence with rich, vibrant tones.
Set in the Palais Garnier in Paris, the collection was created with the space in mind and channelling the stories those walls might tell and the energy from another time that’s exuded. It really seems that way, with nods to different eras of dress in this collection, from the ‘20s to now and everything in between. The oversized, boxy shapes in the tops were giving 80s power shoulders whilst the sequined dresses were a definite nod to the flapper girl look from the ‘20s.
Draping was on point for this collection which, paired with the various patterns and fabrications, gave off a playful elegance that was adventurous and bold yet tasteful - the Dries Van Noten sweet spot. This notion was pushed further with the standout, tasselled details at the tail end of the collection that really showed off Klausner’s creativity and boldness, even for his debut collection.
An interesting choice for this collection, though, were the wig caps that were seen on most of the models - was it a ploy to save time on hair and make-up or to unify the looks of the models? Whatever the intention of it was, we f*cked with it nonetheless.
It’s a statement of a first collection from Klausner; it’s never easy to take over from someone’s eponymous label and he’s made it look so easy. This collection puts to rest any worries about Dries Van Noten’s future - it’s in Julian Klausner’s safe hands now.
Featured image via Getty©
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