Since Jonathan Anderson’s appointment as Artistic Director of Dior Men’s was announced on April 18th, rumours have been swirling that he’ll also head up Dior’s womenswear offering. Now that Maria Grazia Chiuri is stepping down, that's looking increasingly likely.
But what, exactly, is the speculation based on? Alongside industry whispers, there are a wealth of cryptic hints that suggest Anderson will be taking on the top role at Dior Women's.
When Anderson took to Instagram to announce that he had been appointed head of Dior Homme, he posted a photo of a Dior label alongside the caption “Dior.” Meanwhile, his Instagram bio simply reads “Dior.” The decision not to specify that he would be heading up Dior men’s spoke volumes, as, despite a cultural move away from gender binaries, the gender a designer is creating for is still a critical part of the job. The vagueness of the posts could also be perceived as Anderson stepping on Chuiri’s toes, unless, of course, he knew her departure was imminent and was being prepped to take on the role.
Of course, resumé-wise, Anderson is more than qualified to take on the gig. He designed womenswear at Loewe, and his eponymous brand, JW Anderson. And across the board, his designs are well received. According to Morgan Stanley estimates, during Anderson’s tenure, Loewe's sales skyrocketed from €230 million in 2014 to €1.07 billion in 2024. Meanwhile, Anderson’s penchant for virality and internet culture (think the Loewe tomato, which was based on a Tweet) has likely made him an attractive candidate for the gig, particularly given the lackluster response to Chiuri’s collections.
Of course, many will be disappointed to see another white man filling one of fashion’s top jobs: Chiuri was Dior’s first woman creative director, and many people were hoping to see British designer Grace Wales Bonner take over the position. Unfortunately, fashion’s unrelenting inclination towards male CDs is one of the reasons an Anderson announcement is likely imminent.
Image courtesy of David Sims for Dior©
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