Welcome to the new era of Gucci. Characterised by loose tailoring, a punk-rock guitar riff, a smattering of sequins, and a touch of indie, Gucci’s first standalone menswear show since the pandemic is a refreshing take on modern masculinity.
Like any new beginning, the show started in darkness, with dim spotlights sweeping over the audience in rhythmic waves. Long-awaited by the fashion community, this is the first standalone menswear show hosted by Gucci since 2017.
Gradually, the spotlights found their place at the centre of the room, revealing a set of drums, bass guitar and mic atop a circular stage in the middle of the runway. As a band took their seats at the instruments, the space fell silent before erupting with the echo of a guitar riff.
The first looks showcased a tailored silhouette already synonymous with Gucci, featuring loose-fitting jackets and suit pants. However, as the audience watched, this languid tailoring transformed, and a more casual, laid back aesthetic seeped into the collection, characterised by baggy jeans, sliced-knee suit pants, mesh shirts, and flashing sequins.
As the music amplified, the collection took on a more punk look, with models donning feathered jackets, glittering tank tops, and billowing blouses with necklines that cut low into their chests. The collection set out to subvert the concept of traditional masculinity, utilising both archetypes of “the traditional gentleman’s wardrobe” as well as a more modern juxtaposition of fabrics, styles, and accessories.
Gucci’s menswear collection undoubtedly played into the recent rise of indie-sleaze, filling the space with the sounds of noise-rock song, Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Dog on a circular stage in the centre of the runway. The whole aesthetic of the show implied a nod to punk culture’s roots, providing a nostalgic glimpse into 90s Britain, which the clothing’s relaxed and edgy style married seamlessly with.
The show was intended to feel like a performance, utilising the theme of “improvisation”, as is used in theatre, to create a sense of the freedom of styling and the unity of multiple minds to create one collection. This feeling of improvisation also supported the unconventional aesthetic of the collection, showing Gucci’s new path is set to be intriguingly unpredictable.
Altogether the collection felt effortless, though still thought through and considered. Gucci’s entering a new era and they want us to take note.
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