For H&M’s latest link up it’s tapped the legendary designer previously behind Y/PROJECT, and currently heading up Maison Margiela and Diesel, Glenn Martens to design a collection inspired by corgis, pigeons, and ghosts - the best bits of British culture. We caught up with Glenn and H&M’s Head of Design Ann-Sofie Johansson, who also helped bring the collection to life, on a double decker bus in London. Here’s what went down.
You’ve said that this collection is “for the people.” Why was it important to open up your designs to a bigger audience at a more accessible price point?
Glenn: “We love fashion because fashion brings so much happiness to people. But at its core, all these kinds of developments and tricks and design concepts are very expensive because they’re so complicated to make. That’s why luxury is very exclusive and we can't really make everybody happy. With the power of H&M, we were able to push super creative items and give access to all of the people that normally can't reach it. I think it's important to re-engage with the reason fashion is there: to empower people, to make people happy. Working with H&M we can really bring the craftsmanship of high fashion to the streets.”
H&M’s been bringing these designer collaborations to the public for decades, but why do you think people are craving an accessible take on luxury designs right now?
Ann-Sofie: “It's just that dream that comes true. We can really make that happen, and so many more people can have access to something they might not otherwise have access to. That's the whole idea behind the collaboration. It's as simple as that: the dream of fashion, the dream of owning something that will make you look great and make you feel great as well.”
There are so many small details to this collection that fans might not notice at first. Do you have a personal favourite?
Ann-Sofie: “I think the Glenn Martens’ logo print in the trompe-l'œil detail, because that is so tiny and a little bit invisible. I think that is really fun to see [up close].”
Glenn: “For me it’s the Glenn Martens’ logo on the underwear because I like [to see] my name on everybody's ass.”
You looked at the aesthetic of “Britishness” for the collaboration. What does stereotypically “British” fashion look like to you?
Glenn: “I think a Barber jacket, or maybe a trench.”
Ann-Sofie: “Yes, I guess something like that, or wellies.”
Glenn: “But that’s really the cliché. I have to say there's a real type on the streets [of London]. Yesterday, I was walking to the V&A for like three hours, getting lost in London, and I [noticed] there's a proper “London” style. It's a little bit of ‘70s vintage - they look more fancy than in France, for sure. They’re a bit like club kids, but more eccentric.”
You already tapped two British icons - Richard E. Grant and Joanna Lumley - for the campaign, but if you had to style any other British icons in the collection, who would they be?
Glenn: “I have to say, the original idea was that we wanted to have only British icons in the campaign, all the comics like in ‘Little Britain’. But obviously, it's an international brand, and to be honest, all your Brits have been cancelled.”
Ann-Sofie: “Haha yes - I think someone like Lola Young would also be really cool. There’s so many young people [that could wear it]. Or King Charles.”
Where would you expect to see someone wear this collection?
Ann-Sofie: “I think anywhere - everywhere! It's so versatile. It’s basics that have been, you know, ‘Glenn-ified’.”
Glenn: “I definitely want to see people wearing the looks featuring metal wires going through an airport’s security. I think that’s going to be fun.”
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