Back in January, Martine Rose gave us a night to remember when she presented her Fall/Winter 2024 collection to an intimate crowd of friends and fam in London. Now, she’s giving us a collection to remember in the form of an FW24 lookbook lensed by Jamie Morgan.
Like the show that reminded everyone why Rose is up there with everyone’s favourite designers, its recent lookbook is packed with brand signatures. There are square-toed loafers, warmly familiar logo riffs, and boxy suiting worn with bolo ties, which cook up an absolute sartorial storm. And, given the collection’s initial presentation felt more like a party than a fashion show, it feels only right that models are pictured posing against boxed-up presents and balloons.
But what would Martine Rose be without the people who wear it? Aside from its ever-increasing roster of celeb wearers, which includes Rihanna, Hailey Bieber, and, of course, Kendrick Lamar, who chooses Martine Rose as his rap beef armour of choice, Rose’s recurring list of protagonists and fans of the brand makes it so sick.
In the lookbook, the usual suspects who have been integral to the brand’s storytelling are back, donning poncho-style coats and tailored jackets tucked into waistbands—a styling trick that Rose used in earlier collections to merge outerwear into a mid-layer, subverting how tailoring functions in a wardrobe, softening its rigidity into something looser, more fun, and more Martine Rose. More twisted tailoring is seen in hand-tied jackets, juxtaposing wide-lapelled structure with dress-like detailing, and double-breasted jackets are finished with track-top-like elasticated hems.
For Fall/Winter 2024, Rose explores the idea of the local hero – the big guy in your community, through convertible and reversible constructions, working with instinctive styling techniques like layering your gilet or knots on tees drawn from the dance-induced sweat prevention you might find yourself doing in a sweaty nightclub.
Rose’s subcultural design tropes that have explored rave culture and its sportswear crossovers, punk and rude boys, can be seen in trippy space print trousers and shirts, colour-blocked track tops and camo denim. Unbuttoned leather jeans and bondage-style belts ooze with a sexiness that Rose does well, exploring the beauty of the everyday and spaces less spotlighted. The collection also sees the return of the collaboration between Martine Rose and Clarks footwear as part of her role as Guest Creative Director of Clarks. There are sling-back heels, padded mules and padded Oxford shoes.
If you’re into it, you can grab the Martine Rose FW24 collection on the brand’s web store.
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