Dior Homme is reliably one of the hottest tickets on the Men' s Fashion Week Calendar, and today was no exception. A-listers from Gwendoline Christie to Robert Pattinson descended on Paris to witness Artistic Director Kim Jones’ send his AW25 vision down the runway. Upturning gender codes was high on Jones’ priority list this season, with bows, blouses, and exposed collarbones reigning supreme.
Unlike previous seasons where the catwalk was adorned with giant ceramic cats or models emerged from erected fairytale houses onto a meadow in full bloom, this season’s showspace was minimalist. The walls were sparse and white, and models walked along tiled concrete floors. The only noteworthy aspect was an illuminated staircase that descended under the catwalk, through which models exited the runway, granting front-rowers an almost birds eye view of the collection.
Monochromatic minimalism
The benefit to a sparse set, is, of course, that all eyes remain planted firmly on the clothes. Like the set, this season's offering was relatively minimalist. Bar an attention-grabbing infusion of baby pink pieces and a smattering of browns, the majority of the collection was monochromatic: cream tailcoats and cardigans were tailored to accentuate the waist (men’s waists were also cinched at Bluemarble — we sense a trend incoming), and black suit trousers came in both fitted and baggy iterations.
Bows for boys
Perhaps the most standout feature of the collection was its litany of ribbons. While hyper-feminine bows were 2024’s biggest trend for women, Jones’ may have just signaled the onset of their masc era: ribbons acting as blindfolds veiled models eyes (‘Dior’ mesh cutouts granted them the ability to navigate the runway), a giant bow adorned the back of a pastel pink blazer, and ribbons cuffed bomber jackets at the upper-arm in a contrasting mishmash of gender codes.
Blouses go hard
While the word ‘blouse’ might conjure up images of the attire your granny wears to church, blouses have been on the ascent for men over the last few seasons (not least thanks to Harry Styles and Gucci). Dior’s AW25 offering, however, leaned away from elaborate patterns and pussy bows, instead embracing simplicity: black and white billowing silk offerings exposed models’ forearms. More experimentally, cowl neck blouses came in buttery leather iterations.
Collar bones are the new pressure point
With the exception of the divisive tank top, throughout history, men's collar bones have been perpetually obscured by shirts and T-shirts. Dior says hide them no more. A decent swath of this season’s looks— from blazers to tank tops, to cardigans — saw models’ collarbones exposed on show (and glowing, for that matter).
The closing Kimono
The show’s closing look was undoubtedly the highlight: a knee-length baby pink kimono embellished with intricate floral diamond patterning was secured at the waist with — of course — a giant bow. The look was undoubtedly a nod to the brand’s archival SS07 couture collection — when John Galliano was at its helm— which centered around the theme of the Geisha.
All featured images via Getty ©
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